Technical Papers
Apr 5, 2016

Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Shore with Multiple Bars: Recent Evidence

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142, Issue 5

Abstract

This paper presents more precise evidence on the existence of infragravity waves at a dissipative coastal segment of the Baltic Sea in Poland. The waves were identified with recorded water levels from four gauges in close shoreline proximity, and detailed analyses focused on the output and patterns obtained through the use of discrete wavelet transform (DWT) and cross-correlation functions. As a result, two infragravity waves could be identified: a progressive wave with a period of 34 s, wavelength of 96 m, and a modal number (n = 2); and a standing wave with a period of 130 s, and a wavelength of 252 m, and a modal number (n = 0). The combination of DWT and traditional cross-correlation analysis can serve as a universal tool for nearshore hydrodynamic investigations. Also, this methodology can be applied by extending instrumentation and placing two more wave gauges to form a line of five devices; this potential follow-up research should determine the wavelengths and modal numbers with more precision. This study provides the spatial scales needed to place such additional devices.

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Acknowledgments

Research presented in this paper was supported by the National Science Centre grant for the project Analysis of Impact of Wind and Infragravity Waves on Coastal and Seabed Evolution—Extension and Verification of Mathematical and Numerical Models (UMO-2012/05/B/ST10/00926). The authors appreciate this support.

References

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Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142Issue 5September 2016

History

Received: Sep 30, 2015
Accepted: Feb 23, 2016
Published online: Apr 5, 2016
Published in print: Sep 1, 2016
Discussion open until: Sep 5, 2016

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Authors

Affiliations

Piotr Szmytkiewicz, Ph.D. [email protected]
Research Associate, Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska, 80-328, Gdańsk, Poland. E-mail: [email protected]
Grzegorz Różyński, D.Sc. [email protected]
Senior Researcher, Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, 7 Kościerska, 80-328, Gdańsk, Poland (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]

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