Wave Transformation and Sand Transport on a Macrotidal Pocket Beach
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142, Issue 1
Abstract
Available 17-day field data in Korea are analyzed to investigate the cross-shore wave transformation, currents and sand suspension in the intertidal zone, and beach profile changes of a macrotidal pocket beach with a gentle slope of 0.02 and tidal ranges of 4–7 m. The measured beach profile changes were less than 0.5 m despite the occurrence of two consecutive storms with significant wave heights exceeding 2 m. A cross-shore numerical model is shown to reproduce the gradual wave height decay in the migratory surf zone, the cross-shore current of the order of 0.1 m/s affected by flood and ebb tides, the suspended sand volume varying with the tidal cycle, and the small beach-profile changes. The computed cross-shore and longshore sand-transport volumes per unit width for the 17-day interval are relatively small, but extend the 400-m-wide cross-shore zone. The small volume and wide zone reduces the local erosion or accretion.
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Acknowledgments
This study was supported by the project titled “Development of Coastal Erosion Control Technology” funded by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, Korea and partially by the Basic Science Research Project through the National Research Foundation of Korea, funded by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology (400-20100155). The authors would like to thank the three reviewers for their constructive comments.
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Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142 • Issue 1 • January 2016
Copyright
© 2015 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Aug 5, 2014
Accepted: Mar 4, 2015
Published online: Jun 20, 2015
Discussion open until: Nov 20, 2015
Published in print: Jan 1, 2016
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