Data-Driven and Theoretical Beach Equilibrium Profiles: Implications and Consequences
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 141, Issue 5
Abstract
This paper presents a concept of data-driven beach equilibrium profiles of cross-shore seabed records from the coastal station of Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego Polskiej Akademii Nauk at Lubiatowo, Poland, where multiple longshore bars are present. Data-driven equilibrium profiles are the monotonic trends of cross-shore seabed profiles. They were extracted using the empirical mode decomposition method. They retain general properties of Dean profiles, i.e., the Dean coefficients fitted to raw profiles are practically identical to those fitted to their trends. The monotonic property of trends allows for the introduction of cross-shore variable wave-energy dissipation rates, which can be compared with the constant Dean rates. This is the novel element of data-driven beach equilibrium profiles. Variable rates help indicate locations on a beach where wave-energy dissipation is intensive and produces erosion and where it is lower and generates deposition of sediment. In other words, variations of wave-energy dissipation can be assessed with greater precision from seabed configuration only, without any hydrodynamic information. Importantly, when a local wave climate is known, the associated depths of closure can be evaluated to determine the offshore limits, where the data-driven beach equilibrium profile concept can be valid.
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Acknowledgments
This research was supported by the Polish–Taiwanese joint project Coastal Zone Variations under Climate Change within the project-based personnel exchange program of the Polish Academy of Science and National Science Council of Taiwan.
Research presented in this paper was supported by the National Science Centre (Project title: Analysis of Impact of Wind and Infragravity Waves on Coastal and Seabed Evolution—Extension and Verification of Mathematical and Numerical Models, No. UMO-2012/05/B/ST10/00926). The authors appreciate this support.
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 141 • Issue 5 • September 2015
Copyright
© 2015 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Jul 11, 2014
Accepted: Jan 20, 2015
Published online: May 13, 2015
Published in print: Sep 1, 2015
Discussion open until: Oct 13, 2015
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