Technical Papers
Jul 23, 2014

Velocity Fields in Near-Bottom and Boundary Layer Flows in Prebreaking Zone of a Solitary Wave Propagating over a 1:10 Slope

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 141, Issue 3

Abstract

The velocity characteristics of a solitary wave shoaling in the prebreaking zone and near the breaking point are investigated experimentally. The study focuses on the near-bottom and boundary layer flows on a 1:10 slope, with the incident wave steepness varying from 0.133 to 0.384. Both a flow visualization technique (FVT) with thin-layered dye as well as particle image velocimetry (PIV) with a high-speed camera were used. Results from FVT reveal that laminar boundary layer flow occurs not only in the prebreaking zone during the shoaling phases, but also in the postbreaking zone during the run-up and run-down phases. However, the laminar boundary layer disappears soon after breaking but before the run-up motion, and immediately after the flow separation followed by hydraulic jump during the later stage of the run-down motion. Results from the PIV measurement show that the maximum horizontal velocity appears under the wave crest and increases during the shoaling process. Flow reversal is observed after the passage of the wave crest. Three unique similarity profiles are then obtained for the velocity distributions in the acceleration phases and in the layers of flow reversal with overshooting, as well as for the maximum onshore and offshore velocities in the boundary layer. In addition, the nondimensional time for the beginning of flow reversal at each measuring section is found to be exponentially proportional to the dimensionless distance to the slope origin, but nearly independent of the incident wave steepness. This study also investigates the lead-time effects of the horizontal velocity at different heights in the boundary layer and at different measuring sections along the slope. The maximum value of the nondimensional lead time, occurring very close to the sloping bottom, decreases linearly with the dimensionless distance to the toe of the slope.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

Acknowledgments

This work was performed with the support of Ministry of Science and Technology (former National Science Council), Taiwan (Grant No. NSC 99-2221-E-005-117-MY3). The authors would like to express their sincere appreciation to all the reviewers for providing very valuable comments and suggestions for this study.

References

Adrian, R. J., and Westerweel, J. (2011). Particle image velocimetry, Cambridge University Press, New York.
Chang, C.-H., Tang, C.-J., and Lin, C. (2012). “Vortex generation and flow pattern development after a solitary wave passing over a bottom cavity.” Comput. Fluids, 53, 79–92.
Chang, K.-A., Hsu, T.-J., and Liu, P. L.-F. (2001). “Vortex generation and evolution in water waves propagating over a submerged rectangular obstacle: Part I. Solitary waves.” Coast. Eng., 44(1), 13–36.
Chang, K.-A., and Liu, P. L.-F. (2000). “Pseudo turbulence in PIV breaking-wave measurements.” Exp. Fluids, 29(4), 331–338.
Cowen, E. A., and Monismith, S. G. (1997). “A hybrid digital particle tracking velocimetry technique.” Exp. Fluids, 22(3), 199–211.
Daily, J. W., and Stephan, S. C. (1953). “Characteristics of the solitary wave.” Trans. Am. Soc. Civ. Eng., 118, 575–587.
Goring, D. G. (1978). “Tsunami: The propagation of long waves onto a shelf.” Rep. No. KH-R-38, W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA.
Grilli, S. T., Subramanya, R., Svendsen, I. A., and Veeramony, J. (1994). “Shoaling of solitary waves on plane beaches.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 609–628.
Grilli, S. T., Svendsen, I. A., and Subramanya, R. (1997). “Breaking criterion and characteristics for solitary waves on slopes.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 102–112.
Ho, T.-C., Lin, C., and Hwang, K.-S. (2012). “Characteristics of shear layer and primary vortex induced by solitary waves propagating over rectangular structures with different aspect ratios.” J. Eng. Mech., 1084–1100.
Jensen, A., Pedersen, G. K., and Wood, D. J. (2003). “An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach.” J. Fluid Mech., 486(Jun.), 161–188.
Keane, R. D., and Adrian, R. J. (1992). “Theory of cross-correlation analysis of PIV images.” Appl. Sci. Res., 49, 191–215.
Keulegan, G. H. (1948). “Gradual damping of solitary waves.” J. Res. Natl. Bur. Stand., 40(6), 487–498.
Kline, S. J., Reynolds, W. C., Schraub, F. A., and Runstadler, P. W. (1967). “The structure of turbulent boundary layers.” J. Fluid Mech., 30(4), 741–773.
LabVIEW 6i [Computer software]. Austin, TX, National Instruments.
Li, Y., and Raichlen, F. (2002). “Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up.” J. Fluid Mech., 456(Apr.), 295–318.
Li, Y., and Raichlen, F. (2003). “Energy balance model for breaking solitary wave runup.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 47–59.
Lin, C., Hseih, S.-C., Lin, I.-J., Chang, K.-A., and Raikar, R. V. (2012). “Flow property and self-similarity in steady hydraulic jumps.” Exp. Fluids, 53(5), 1591–1616.
Lin, C., and Hwung, H.-H. (2002). “Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves.” Ocean Eng., 29(12), 1479–1502.
Lin, C., Jeng, C. N., Yen, G. H., and Tsai, C. P. (1986). “Measurement of velocity and evaluation of bottom shear stress in the laminar wave boundary layer.” J. Mech., 12(2), 267–278.
Lin, C., Yeh, P.-H., Hseih, S.-C., Shih, Y.-N., Lo, L.-F., and Tsai, C.-P. (2014). “Prebreaking internal velocity field induced by a solitary wave propagating over a 1:10 slope.” Ocean Eng., 80, 1–12.
Lin, P., Chang, K.-A., and Liu, P. L.-F. (1999). “Runup and rundown of solitary waves on sloping beaches.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 247–255.
Liu, P. L.-F. (2006). “Turbulent boundary-layer effects on transient wave propagation in shallow water.” Proc. R. Soc. A, 462(2075), 3481–3491.
Liu, P. L.-F., and Orfila, A. (2004). “Viscous effects on transient long-wave propagation.” J. Fluid Mech., 520(Dec.), 83–92.
Liu, P. L.-F., Park, Y. S., and Cowen, E. A. (2007). “Boundary layer flow and bed shear stress under a solitary wave.” J. Fluid Mech., 574(Mar.), 449–463.
Liu, P. L.-F., Simarro, G., Vandever, J., and Orfila, A. (2006). “Experimental and numerical investigation of viscous effects on solitary wave propagation in a wave tank.” Coast. Eng., 53(2–3), 181–190.
Mei, C. C. (1981). The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves, Wiley, Hoboken, NJ.
Mo, W., Jensen, A., and Liu, P. L.-F. (2013). “Plunging solitary wave and its interaction with a slender cylinder on a sloping beach.” Ocean Eng., 74(Dec.), 48–60.
Ott, E., and Sudan, R. N. (1970). “Damping of solitary waves.” Phys. Fluids, 13(6), 1432–1434.
Pedersen, G. K., Lindstrøm, E., Bertelsen, A. F., Jensen, A., Laskovski, D., and Sælevik, G. (2013). “Runup and boundary layers on sloping beaches.” Phys. Fluids, 25(1), 012102.
Sælevik, G., Jensen, A., and Pedersen, G. (2013). “Runup of solitary waves on a straight and a composite beach.” Coast. Eng., 77(Jul.), 40–48.
Seelam, J. K., Guard, P. A., and Baldock, T. E. (2011). “Measurement and modeling of bed shear stress under solitary waves.” Coast. Eng., 58(9), 937–947.
Sleath, J. F. A. (1970). “Velocity measurements close to the bed in a wave tank.” J. Fluid Mech., 42(1), 111–123.
Sumer, B. M., et al. (2011). “Flow and sediment transport induced by a plunging solitary wave.” J. Geophys. Res., 116(C1), C01008.
Sumer, B. M., Jensen, P. M., Sørensen, L. B., Fredsøe, J., Liu, P. L.-F., and Carstensen, S. (2010). “Coherent structures in wave boundary layers. Part 2. Solitary motion.” J. Fluid Mech., 646(Mar.), 207–231.
Synolakis, C. E. (1987). “The runup of solitary waves.” J. Fluid Mech., 185(Dec.), 523–545.
Synolakis, C. E., and Skjelbreia, J. E. (1993). “Evolution of maximum amplitude of solitary waves on plane beaches.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 323–342.
Tennekes, H., and Lumley, J. L. (1972). A first course in turbulence, MIT Press, Cambridge, MA.
Zhang, Q., and Liu, P. L.-F. (2008). “A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores.” Coast. Eng., 55(12), 1113–1134.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 141Issue 3May 2015

History

Received: Oct 7, 2013
Accepted: Apr 29, 2014
Published online: Jul 23, 2014
Published in print: May 1, 2015

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Professor, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]
Po-Hung Yeh [email protected]
Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Ming-Jer Kao [email protected]
Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Min-Hsuan Yu [email protected]
Master's Graduate, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan; formerly, M.Eng. Candidate, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Shih-Chun Hsieh [email protected]
Postdoctoral Research Fellow, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Sung-Chen Chang [email protected]
Master's Graduate, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan; formerly, M.Eng. Candidate, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Associate Professor, Graduate Institute of Hydrological and Oceanic Sciences, National Central Univ., Taoyuan 320, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]
Ching-Piao Tsai [email protected]
Professor, Dept. of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing Univ., Taichung 402, Taiwan. E-mail: [email protected]

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share