Seasonal to Decadal Variability of Longshore Sand Transport at the Northwest Coast of Portugal
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 138, Issue 6
Abstract
Longshore sediment transport (LST) is a major driver of coastal evolution. However, despite the recognition that it presents an unsteady behavior at the seasonal scale, the variability at longer term scales (interannual and decadal) is still far from being properly acknowledged. The present work contributes to the understanding of the seasonal to decadal variability of the LST, benefiting from recent developments in wave hindcast modeling. This work was developed for the northwest coast of Portugal, which is fully exposed to the highly energetic wave regime generated in the Northeast Atlantic Ocean that induces unusually large LST rates. Hindcast offshore waves, between 1953 and 2010, were used as offshore forcing to deduce LST estimates. The mean annual LST, between 1953 and 2010, shows an irregular and noncyclic pattern. Computed mean annual LST, for this coastal stretch, is around 1 million cubic meters directed to the south, with yearly averages ranging from 108,000 to 2.24 million m3 year−1 always directed to the south. The maximum observed annual LST magnitude exceeds the mean magnitude by more than 100%. The variability in LST magnitude was found to be mainly related to the LST magnitudes of autumn/winter months in response to the wave regime seasonality. Results show that to estimate the long-term LST within an error of about 20%, a period of about 10 years of data/observations is required. Interannual variability in the magnitude of the LST was found to be correlated () with the annual North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index. In the years where the NAO index was higher, the mean annual LST was generally greater than the long-term average, while negative NAO index corresponds to lower than average LST estimates.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
Acknowledgments
The first author was conferred a Ph.D. grant (Grant No. SFRH/BD/41762/2007) by the Portuguese Science and Technology Foundation (FCT). This work is also a contribution to the European project Morphological Impacts and Coastal Risks induced by Extreme storm events (MICORE; Grant No. 202798) and the FCT project Beach to Canyon Head Sedimentary Processes (B2C; Grant No. PTDC/MAR/114674/2009). The final version of the paper has benefited from the valuable comments of three anonymous reviewers.
References
Abecasis, C. (1955). “The history of a tidal lagoon inlet and its improvement (the case of Aveiro, Portugal).” Proc., 5th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Grenoble, France, 329–363.
Andrade, C., et al. (2002). “Coastal zones.” Climate change in Portugal. Scenarios, impacts and adaptation measures, F. D. Santos, K. Forbes, and R. Moita, eds., Gradiva, Lisbon, Portugal, 173–219.
Andrade, C., Pires, O., Taborda, R., and Freitas, M. C. (2007). “Projecting future changes in wave climate and coastal response in Portugal by the end of the 21st century.” J. Coast. Res., SI 50, 263–267.
Baptista, P. (2006). “O sistema de posicionamento global aplicado ao estudo de litorais arenosos.” Ph.D. thesis, Univ. of Aveiro, Aveiro, Portugal.
Battjes, J. A., and Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978). “Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves.” Proc., 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 569–587.
Bauer, E. (2001). “Interannual changes of the ocean wave variability in the North Atlantic and in the North Sea.” Clim. Res., 18(1–2), 63–69.
Bertin, X., Castelle, B., Chaumillon, E., Butel, R., and Quique, R. (2008). “Longshore transport estimation and interannual variability at a high energy dissipative beach: St Trojan Beach, SW Oléron Island, France.” Cont. Shelf Res., 28(10–11), 1316–1332.
Booij, N., Ris, R. C., and Holthuijsen, L. H. (1999). “A third-generation wave model for coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation.” J. Geophys. Res., 104(C4), 649–666.
Coelho, C., Silva, R., Veloso-Gomes, F., and Taveira-Pinto, F. (2009). “Potential effects of climate change on northwest Portuguese coastal zones.” ICES J. Mar. Sci., 66(7), 1497–1507.
Dodet, G., Bertin, X., and Taborda, R. (2010). “Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic over the last six decades.” Ocean Model., 31(3–4), 120–131.
Freire de Andrade, C. (1937). “Os vales submarinos portugueses e o diastrofismo das Berlengas e da Estremadura.” Memórias do Serviços Geológicos de Portugal, Casa Portuguesa, Lisbon, Portugal.
Hurrell, J. W. (1995). “Decadal trends in North Atlantic Oscillation: Regional temperatures and precipitation.” Science, 269(5224), 676–679.
Kalnay, E., et al. (1996). “The NCEP/NCAR 40-year reanalysis project.” Bull. Am. Meteorol. Soc., 77(3), 437–472.
Kamphuis, J. W. (1991). “Alongshore sediment transport of sand.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 117(6), 624–641.
Kamphuis, J. W. (2000). Introduction to coastal engineering and management, World Scientific, Singapore.
Laranjeiro, S. H. C. D., Oliveira, F. S. B. F., Taborda, R., and Silva, R. (2004). “Dinâmica sedimentar do trecho litoral Praia da Vieira–Praia Velha. Caracterização de parâmetros morfodinâmicos.” Proc., 7° Congresso da Água (CD-ROM ), APRH, Lisboa, Portugal.
Luterbacher, J., et al. (2001). “Extending North Atlantic oscillation reconstructions back to 1500.” Atmos. Sci. Lett., 2(1–4), 114–124.
Madsen, O. S., Poon, Y.-K., and Graber, H. C. (1988). “Spectral wave attenuation by bottom friction: Theory.” Proc., 21th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 492–504.
Oliveira, A., Santos, A., Rodrigues, A., and Vitorino, J. (2007). “Sedimentary particle distribution and dynamics on the Nazaré canyon system and adjacent shelf (Portugal).” Mar. Geol., 246(2–4), 105–122.
Oliveira, F. S. B. F., Oliveira, T. C. A., Silva, R., and Larangeiro, S. H. C. D. (2004). “Dinâmica sedimentar do trecho litoral Praia da Vieira–Praia Velha. Hidrodinâmica e transporte longitudinal de sedimentos.” Proc., 7° Congresso da Água (CD-ROM), APRH, Lisbon, Portugal.
Pilar, P., Guedes Soares, C., and Carretero, J. C. (2008). “44-year wave hindcast for the North East Atlantic European coast.” Coast. Eng., 55(11), 861–871.
Rosati, J. D., Walton, T. L., and Bodge, K. (2002). “Longshore sediment transport.” Chapter III-2, Coastal Engineering Manual, Part III, Longshore sediment transport, 1100-2-1100. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, DC.
Schoonees, J. S. (2000). “Annual variation in the net longshore sediment transport rate.” Coast. Eng., 40(2), 141–160.
Shi-Leng, X., and Teh-Fu, T. (1987). “Long-term variation of longshore sediment transport.” Coast. Eng., 11(2), 131–140.
Silva, R., Silva, A. J., Rusu, E., Oliveira, F. S. B. F., Larangeiro, S. H. C. D., and Taborda, R. (2005). “Evaluation of the longshore current for a sector of the Portuguese west coast: Application of different methodologies.” Proc., 29th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 2, World Scientific, Lisbon, Portugal, 1455–1467.
SWAN 40.72 [Computer software]. Delft, Netherlands, Delft Univ. of Technology.
Taborda, R., Ferreira, Ó., Dias, J. M. A., and Moita, P. (1994). “Field observations of longshore sand transport in a high energy environment.” Proc., Littoral 94. Second Int. Symp. European Coastal Zone Association for Science and Technology, EUROCOAST, Lisbon, Portugal, 479–487.
Taborda, R., Magalhães, F., and Ângelo, C. (2005). “Evaluation of coastal defence strategies in Portugal.” Environment friendly coastal protection structures, B. Dean and C. Zimmermann, eds., Kluwer, Dordrecht, Netherlands, 255–265.
Taveira-Pinto, F., Pais-Barbosa, J., and Veloso-Gomes, F. (2009). “Coastline evolution at Esmoriz-Furadouro stretch (Portugal).” J. Coast. Res., SI 56, 673–677.
Teixeira, S. (1994). “Dinâmica sedimentar da ria de Aveiro (Portugal).” Ph.D. thesis, Univ. of Lisbon, Lisbon, Portugal.
Tolman, H. L. (2009). “User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III version 3.14.” Tech. Note 276, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Camp Springs, MD.
WAVEWATCH III 3.14 [Computer software]. Camp Springs, MD, NOAA.
Woolf, D. K., Challenor, P. G., and Cotton, P. D. (2002). “Variability and predictability of the North Atlantic wave climate.” J. Geophys. Res., 107(C10), 3145.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
© 2012 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: May 4, 2011
Accepted: Nov 21, 2011
Published online: Mar 14, 2012
Published in print: Nov 1, 2012
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.