Technical Papers
Dec 7, 2011

Fully Nonlinear Model for Water Wave Propagation from Deep to Shallow Waters

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 138, Issue 5

Abstract

A set of fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type equations (BTEs) with improved linear and nonlinear dispersive performance is presented. The highest order of the derivatives is three in the equations, and they use the minimum number of unknowns: the free surface elevation and the horizontal velocity at a certain depth. The equations allow reduction of the errors both in linear frequency dispersion and shoaling below 0.30% for kh5, and below 2.2% for kh10, with k as the wave number and h as the water depth. The weakly nonlinear performance is also improved for kh2. A simple fourth-order explicit numerical scheme is presented to test the linear and nonlinear behavior of the model equations against analytical and experimental results.

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Acknowledgments

The writers received financial support from MICINN Project CTM2010-16915. A. Galan is supported by funding from CSIC through the JAE-Pre Program. G. Simarro is supported by the Spanish government through Ramón y Cajal program. P.L-F. Liu received financial support from the National Science Foundation (NSF). Professor Andrés Encinas’ helpful comments are greatly acknowledged.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 138Issue 5September 2012
Pages: 362 - 371

History

Received: Mar 15, 2011
Accepted: Dec 5, 2011
Published online: Dec 7, 2011
Published in print: Sep 1, 2012

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Authors

Affiliations

A. Galan
Assistant Professor, E.T.S.I. Caminos, Univ. de Castilla La Mancha, 13071 Ciudad Real, Spain; formerly, Ph.D. Student, Institut Mediterrani d’Estudis Avançats (UIB-CSIC), 07190 Esporles, Spain.
Ramón y Cajal Program Researcher, Instituto de Ciencias del Mar (CSIC), 08003 Barcelona, Spain; formerly, Associate Professor, E.T.S.I. Caminos, Univ. de Castilla La Mancha, 13071 Ciudad Real, Spain (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]
A. Orfila
Tenured Scientist, Institut Mediterrani d’Estudis Avançats (UIB-CSIC), 07190 Esporles, Spain.
J. Simarro
Chief of Studies and Development, Agencia Estatal de Meteorologia AEMET, 46010 Valencia, Spain.
P. L.-F. Liu, F.ASCE
Professor, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell Univ., Ithaca, NY 14853; and Chair Professor, Institute of Hydrological and Ocean Sciences, National Central Univ., Taipei 10617, Taiwan.

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