Abstract

As a new alternative countermeasure to protect the coastal zone and to increase the surfing possibilities in the Leirosa area of Portugal, multifunctional artificial reefs were investigated numerically in this paper. The primary surfing parameters used in the design (i.e., breaker type, peel angle, wave height at breaking, and currents around the artificial reef) were analyzed. The reef functionality was also analyzed for coastal protection. Two reef geometries with different reef angles of 45 and 66° were tested, considering two design wave conditions (storm and common) and two tide levels (medium and low). Simulations show that both reef geometries are adequate for surfing, although the reef angle of 66° is more suitable for standard surfers, and the 45° angle is more adequate for advanced/professional surfers. A morphodynamic study should be carried out to analyze the efficiency of the artificial surf reef for coastal protection.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

Acknowledgments

This project has been supported by the Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia through grants PTDC/ECM/66516/2006 and PTDC/ECM/67411/2006.

References

Antunes do Carmo, J. S., Schreck, Reis, C., and Freitas, H. (2010). “Working with nature by protecting sand dunes: Lessons learned.” J. Coastal Res.JCRSEK, 26(6), 1068–1078,.
Barber, N. F. (1961). “The directional resolving power of an array of wave detectors.” Ocean wave spectra, Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ, 137–150.
Battjes, J. A. (1974). “Surf similarity.” Proc., 14th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Reston, VA, 466–479.
Beamsley, B., and Black, K. (2003). “The effect of offshore reefs on inshore surfing conditions.” Proc., 3rd Int. Surfing Reef Symp., Raglan, New Zealand, 99–114.
Bowen, A. J. (1969). “Rip currents. 1: Theoretical investigations.” J. Geophys. Res.JGREA2, 74(23), 5467–5478.
Cáceres, I., Trung, Le H., van Ettinger, H. D., Reniers, A., and Uijttewaal, W. (2010). “Wave and flow response to an artificial surf reef: Laboratory measurements.” J. Hydraul. Eng.JHEND8, 136(5), 299–310.
Costa, M. (2009). “Tratamento de dados de agitação marítima: Leirosa.” Instituto Hidrográfico, Oceanography Division, Lisbon, Portugal (in Portuguese).
Dally, W. R. (2001). “The maximum speed of surfers.” J. Coastal Res.JCRSEK, SI(29), 33–40.
Duarte, D. N., and Reis, R. P. (1992). “Estudo preliminar da evolução da linha de costa adjacente à embocadura do estuário do Mondego entre 1801 e 1989: Estimações das taxas de acreção e erosão costeiras.” Actas do III Congr. Geol. España y VIII Congr. Latimoamericano de Geologia, 2, Universidad de Salamanca, Salamanca, Spain, 146–150 (in Portuguese).
European Commission. (2004). “Living with coastal erosion in Europe: Sediment and space for sustainability.” Eurosion study Eurostat, Luxembourg.
Galvin, C. J. Jr. (1968). “Breaker-type classification on three laboratory beaches.” J. Geophys. Res.JGREA2, 73(12), 3651–3659.
Gomes, F. V., and Pinto, F. T. (2006). Eurosion case study Vagueira-Mira (Portugal), Instituto de Hidráulica e Recursos Hídricos, Porto, Portugal.
Hearin, J. M. (2006). “Preliminary design of an artificial surfing reef for Cocoa beach, Florida.” M.Sc. thesis, Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, FL.
Henriquez, M. (2004). “Artificial surf reefs.” M.Sc. thesis, Delft Univ. of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
Henriquez, M., Janssen, T. T., Van Ettinger, H. D., and Reniers, A. J. H. M. (2006). “Refraction-controlled surfability.” Proc., 5th Int. Artificial Surfing Reef Symp., Lombok Indonesia.
Hiliau, W., and Phillips, D. (2003). “Artificial surfing reef construction.” Proc., 3rd Int. Surfing Reef Symp., Raglan, New Zealand, 378–397.
Hutt, J. A., Black, K. P., and Mead, S. T. (2001). “Classification of surf breaks in relation to surfing skill.” J. Coastal Res.JCRSEK, SI(29), 66–81.
Jackson, L. A., Reichelt, R. E., Restall, S., Corbett, B., Tomlinson, R., and McGrath, J. (2004). “Marine ecosystem enhancement on a geotextile coastal protection reef—Narrowneck reef case study.” Proc., 29th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, National Civil Engineering Laboratory, Lisbon, Portugal, 3940–3952.
Johnson, D. (2000). “DIWASP, a directional wave spectra toolbox for MATLAB®: User manual.” Research Rep. WP-1601-DJ (V1.1), Centre for Water Research, Univ. of Western Australia, Crawley, Australia.
Kennedy, A. B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. Part I: 1D.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 126(1), 39–47.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., Cartwright, D. E., and Smith, N. D. (1963). “Observation of the directional spectrum of SRA waves using the motions of a floating buoy.” Ocean wave spectra, Prentice-Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
Lynett, P., and Liu, P. L.-F. (2004). “Modeling wave generation, evolution, and interaction with depth integrated, dispersive wave equations.” Coulwave Code Manual, Cornell Univ. Long and Intermediate Wave Modeling Package, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, 179 〈http://ceeserver.cee.cornell.edu/pll-group/doc/COULWAVE_manual.pdf〉.
MacMahan, J. H., Thornton, E. B., and Reniers, A. J. H. M. (2006). “Rip current review.” Coastal Eng.COENDE, 53(2), 191–208.
Moores, A. (2001). “Using video images to quantify wave sections and surfers parameters.” M.Sc. thesis, Univ. of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand.
Neves, M. G., Mendonça, A., Borrego, M., and Antunes do Carmo, J. S. (2010). “Bidimensional wave breaking tests over a submerged reef built with geotextile sand containers.” Proc., 3rd Int. Conf. on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection (COASTLAB’10), Barcelona, Spain, in press.
Nwogu, O. (1993). “Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 119(6), 618–638.
Phillips, D. J., Mead, S. T., Black, K. P., and Healy, T. R. (2003). “Surf zone currents and influence on surfability.” Proc., 3rd Int. Artificial Surfing Reef Symp. (CD-ROM), Univ. of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand.
Pilarczyk, K. W. (2003). “Design of low-crested (submerged) structures: An overview.” Proc., 6th Int. Conf. on Coastal and Port Engineering in Developing Countries (COPEDEC VI), Galappatti, R., ed., Lanka Hydraulic Institute, Moratuwa, 1–18.
Press, W. H., Flannery, B. P., and Teukolsky, S. A. (1989). Numerical recipes, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, U.K.
Ranasinghe, R., Turner, I. L., and Symonds, G. (2006). “Shoreline response to multi-functional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modelling study.” Coastal Eng.COENDE, 53(7), 589–611.
Scarfe, B. E. (2002). “Categorising surfing manoeuvres using wave and reef characteristics.” Master’s thesis, Univ. of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand.
Scarfe, B. E., de Lange, W. P., Chong, A. K., Black, K. P., and Mead, S. T. (2002). “The influence of surfing wave parameters on maneuver type from field investigations at Raglan, New Zealand.” Proc. for the 2nd Surfing Arts, Science and Issues Conf. (SASIC 2), The Groundswell Society, 74–89.
Scarfe, B. E., Elwany, M. H. S., Mead, S., and Black, K. P. (2003). “The science of surfing waves and surfing breaks: A review.” Proc., 3rd Int. Surfing Reef Symp., Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Univ. of California San Diego, San Diego.
Shepard, F. P., and Inman, D. L. (1950). “Nearshore water circulation related to bottom topography and wave refraction.” Trans., Am. Geophys. UnionTAGUAT, 31(2), 196–212.
Van Ettinger, E. (2005). “Artificial surf reef design.” M.Sc. thesis, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft Univ. of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
Voorde, M. T. (2009). “Contributions to the design of multi-functional artificial reefs.” Ph.D. thesis, Dept. of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Sciences and Technology of the Univ. of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal.
Voorde, M. T., Antunes do Carmo, J. S., and Neves, M. G. (2009). “Multi-functional artificial reefs for coastal protection.” Chapter 7, Agricultural runoff, coastal engineering and flooding, Hudspeth, Ch. A., and Reeve, T. E., eds., Nova Science Publishers, Hauppauge, NY, 153–210.
Voorde, M. T., Neves, M. G., and Antunes do Carmo, J. S. (2008). “Preliminary study on the geometry of an artificial reef for coastal protection and surfing along the West coast of Portugal.” J. Integ. Coastal Zone Manage., 8(1), 65–79 (in Portuguese).
Walker, J. R. (1974). “Recreational surf parameters.” Technical Rep. 30, James K. K. Look Laboratory of Oceanographic Engineering, University of Hawaii, Manoa, HI.
Wei, G., and Kirby, J. T. (1995). “A time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 121, 251–261.
Wei, G., Kirby, J. T., Grilli, S. T., and Subramanya, R. (1995). “A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I: Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves.” J. Fluid Mech.JFLSA7, 294, 71–92.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 138Issue 3May 2012
Pages: 226 - 235

History

Received: Jun 10, 2010
Accepted: Sep 20, 2011
Published online: Sep 22, 2011
Published in print: May 1, 2012

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Ana Mendonça, M.Sc. [email protected]
Ph.D. Student, Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Departamento de Hidráulica e Ambiente, Av. do Brasil 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal. E-mail: [email protected]
Conceição Juana Fortes, Ph.D. [email protected]
Senior Research Officer, Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Departamento de Hidráulica e Ambiente, Av. do Brasil 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal. E-mail: [email protected]
Rui Capitão, Ph.D. [email protected]
Research Officer, Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Departamento de Hidráulica e Ambiente, Av. do Brasil 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal. E-mail: [email protected]
Maria Graça Neves, Ph.D. [email protected]
Research Officer, Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Departamento de Hidráulica e Ambiente, Av. do Brasil 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal. E-mail: [email protected]
José Simão Antunes do Carmo, Ph.D. [email protected]
Associate Professor, IMAR/FCTUC, Departamento de Engenharia Civil, 3030-788 Coimbra, Portugal (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]
Theo Moura, M.Sc. [email protected]
Research Trainee, Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Departamento de Hidráulica e Ambiente, Av. do Brasil 101, 1700-066 Lisboa, Portugal. E-mail: [email protected]

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share