Numerical Simulations of Wave Setup over Barred Beach Profiles: Implications for Predictability
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137, Issue 4
Abstract
Numerical simulations of cross-shore wave transformation and associated wave setup were performed for 100,000 realistic combinations of wave height, period, and beach profile. Results of numerical simulations were compared with a widely used empirical predictor of wave setup, and the outcome was a large variability in setup relative to that calculated by the empirical predictor. The variability, comparable in magnitude to the scatter around the empirical predictor developed with field observations, arose from wave energy dissipation over the cross-shore profile that was not taken into account. The beach-face slope commonly used in empirical predictors can be a poor descriptor of wave transformation across the beach profile, where most of the wave energy dissipation and setup generation occurs. Shoreline setup appears to be far more dependent on accurate characterization of the offshore profile (e.g., bar location and depth) than the beach-face slope.
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Acknowledgments
We wish to thank Dr. Bob Guza for enthusiastic discussions that developed our thinking. S. Stephens and G. Coco were funded by the New Zealand Foundation for Research Science and Technology (contract UNSPECIFIEDWRHC102). The authors also wish to thank the three reviewers for their useful suggestions.
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137 • Issue 4 • July 2011
Pages: 175 - 181
Copyright
© 2011 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Dec 7, 2009
Accepted: Oct 18, 2010
Published online: Oct 20, 2010
Published in print: Jul 1, 2011
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