Model of Nearshore Waves and Wave-Induced Currents around a Detached Breakwater
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136, Issue 3
Abstract
A numerical model that combines a random wave transformation and a wave-induced current model was developed in order to predict the wave and current fields around a detached breakwater. The wave field was determined using the EBED model, as reported by Mase in 2001, with a modified energy dissipation term. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations in works by Dally and Brown, and Larson and Kraus, in which the term for the roller energy flux in the alongshore direction was added to the energy balance equation. The nearshore currents and water elevation were determined from the continuity equation together with the depth-averaged momentum equations. The model was validated by three unique high-quality data sets obtained during experiments on detached breakwaters in the large-scale sediment transport facility basin at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss. The calculated significant wave height and longshore current were in good agreement with these measurements, whereas the cross-shore current was underestimated because undertow processes were not included in the modeling (depth-averaged equations employed). The calculated wave setup was somewhat overestimated; however, the absolute differences between the calculations and measurements were overall relatively small.
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Acknowledgments
This work was partly funded by Sida/SAREC in the framework of the Project VS/RDE/03 “The evolution and sustainable management in the coastal areas of Vietnam,” partly by Lars Erik Lundbergs Scholarship Foundation, and partly by the Inlet Modeling System Work Unit of the Coastal Inlets Research Program, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Dr. Hajime Mase at Kyoto University kindly supplied the source code for the EBED model. Dr. Ping Wang at University of South Florida and Mr. Mark Gravens at CHL provided the experimental data from their tests, which is greatly appreciated. The writers thank Mrs. Margaret Newman-Nowicka at Lund University for her useful language comments. The writers thank Dr. Nguyen Manh Hung, and the late Prof. Pham Van Ninh for their great contributions to the Project VS/RDE/03 and comments on early drafts of this paper. Finally, the writers thank the anonymous reviewers for their valuable comments.
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136 • Issue 3 • May 2010
Pages: 156 - 176
Copyright
© 2010 ASCE.
History
Received: Feb 5, 2009
Accepted: Sep 30, 2009
Published online: Apr 15, 2010
Published in print: May 2010
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