Surface Roller Model for the Numerical Simulation of Spilling Wave Breaking over Constant Slope Beach
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 135, Issue 5
Abstract
A surface roller model, which captures incipient breaking and postbreaking behavior, is presented for the numerical simulation of spilling breakers. It is based on the corresponding model used in conjunction with Boussinesq-type equations and is applied on the two-dimensional, inviscid but rotational, free-surface flow resulting from the propagation and breaking of regular waves over constant slope beach. The numerical solution of the Euler equations, subject to the fully nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions and the appropriate bottom, inflow and outflow conditions, is facilitated by a hybrid finite differences and spectral method scheme. Results are presented for beach slope values of 1/50, 1/35, and 1/20, and corresponding Irribaren numbers of 0.12, 0.20, and 0.30, respectively. Breaking depth , breaking wave height, and free-surface elevation envelope results are in very good agreement with available experimental measurements and indicate that empirical formulas underpredict both breaking wave height and breaking depth. At the breaking point, wave speed is equal to , while the local Froude number increases with increasing Irribaren number. During postbreaking, the surface roller model generates appropriate vorticity at the breaking face of the wave but overestimates the undertow current in the surf zone.
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Acknowledgments
This paper is part of the 03ED617 research project, implemented within the framework of the “Reinforcement Programme of Human Research Manpower” (PENED) and cofinanced by National and Community Funds (25% from the Greek Ministry of Development-General Secretariat of Research and Technology and 75% from E.U.-European Social Fund) and the Patras Port Authority. The writers also thank Professor Stéphan Grilli for providing us the data published in Grilli and Horrillo (1997), and two anonymous reviewers for their constructive comments and suggestions.
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 135 • Issue 5 • September 2009
Pages: 235 - 244
Copyright
© 2009 ASCE.
History
Received: Dec 26, 2007
Accepted: Feb 5, 2009
Published online: Aug 14, 2009
Published in print: Sep 2009
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