Geometric Study of Monochromatic Wave Breaking on Beaches
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 133, Issue 5
Abstract
A video image processing technique has been developed for the study of free surface water waves. The technique allows detailed examination of continuous image sequences of progressing waves, providing a complete and precise geometric description of an evolving breaking wave. Wave breaking on sloping beaches has been investigated under monochromatic sea conditions and geometric parameters of a large number of breakers have been obtained. The bed slope was found to influence the breaking wave height and depth relationship. A number of new empirical equations have been derived defining the functional relationship between the nondimensional breaking height and breaking depth , between the breaking wave steepness and relative depth , and between the breaking height to depth ratio and nondimensional breaking depth .
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Acknowledgments
This work was supported by the Engineering and Physical Science Research Council in the form of a research studentship for Paul Canning. The writers would also like to thank Bob Gaylor for his technical assistance in the laboratory.
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 133 • Issue 5 • September 2007
Pages: 334 - 342
Copyright
© 2007 ASCE.
History
Received: Sep 21, 2004
Accepted: Nov 17, 2006
Published online: Sep 1, 2007
Published in print: Sep 2007
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