Modeling Near-Shore Waves, Surface Rollers, and Undertow Velocity Profiles
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 132, Issue 6
Abstract
This paper presents a theoretical model for the prediction of near-shore hydrodynamics in the surf zone along long straight beaches. The waves may be periodic or narrow-banded random waves, and the beach profile may be plane or barred. The theoretical model consists of three components: wave model, surface roller model, and near-shore mean current model. Both wave and surface roller models are based on simple energy balance equations and all the variables applied for the current model are determined in terms of wave energies. The near-shore mean current model consists of two-layer 2DH momentum equations, integrated above the wave trough level and over the entire depth, which determine mean shear stresses at the trough level and on the bottom, respectively. Coupled with a simple turbulent eddy viscosity model, analytical solutions are obtained for the vertical mean shear current profiles. The bottom boundary condition is specified by a wave–current bottom boundary layer model requiring knowledge of the equivalent bottom roughness. Model predictions of undertow velocity profiles compare favorably with experimental observations which were not used in the model’s development.
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Acknowledgments
The support for the present research received from U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Engineer Research and Development Center’s Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory under Contract No. UNSPECIFIEDDACA42-01-C-0017 is gratefully acknowledged. It should also be gratefully acknowledged that the first writer was supported by Penta-Ocean Construction Co., Ltd., during initial phases of the research reported here.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 132 • Issue 6 • November 2006
Pages: 429 - 438
Copyright
© 2006 ASCE.
History
Received: Nov 12, 2004
Accepted: Feb 7, 2006
Published online: Nov 1, 2006
Published in print: Nov 2006
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