TECHNICAL PAPERS
Apr 15, 2003

Wave Simulations in Ponce de Leon Inlet Using Boussinesq Model

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 129, Issue 3

Abstract

An improved curvilinear grid model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations is used to simulate wave propagation in Ponce de Leon Inlet, Fla. We employ the nearshore bathymetry of Ponce de Leon Inlet and generate a stretched curvilinear grid that can resolve shortwaves in the nearshore region and fit the complex geometry. Simulations of 18 cases with monochromatic input waves and Texel-Marsden-Arsloe spectral waves are carried out on the same scale as in the 1:100 scale physical model conducted at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Wave height comparisons, time series comparisons of surface elevation for monochromatic wave cases, and comparisons of power spectrum for spectral wave cases are made between numerical results and laboratory measurements. Comparison is also made between the probability distribution of surface elevation and skewness and asymmetry measures for both the measured data and the Boussinesq model results. It is shown that for the computations of nonlinear wave transformation over irregular bathymetry, the Boussinesq model is able to predict nonlinear wave features and is thus a more accurate model than some conventional models in shallow water.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

References

Beji, S., and Nadaoka, K.(1996). “A formal derivation and numerical modelling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth.” Ocean Eng., 23(8), 691–704.
Borgman, L. E. (1984). “Directional spectrum estimation for the Sxy gages.” Tech. Rep., CHL-97-24, United States Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), Waterway Experiment Station.
Bouws, E., Gunther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C. L.(1985). “Similarity of the wind spectrum in finite depth water, 1. Spectral form.” J. Geophys. Res., 90(NC1), 975–986.
Brackbill, J. U., and Saltzman, J. S.(1982). “Adaptive zoning for singular problems in two dimensions.” J. Comput. Phys., 46(3), 342–368.
Chawla, A., and Kirby, J. T.(2000). “A source function method for generation of waves on currents in Boussinesq models.” Appl. Ocean Res., 22(2), 75–83.
Chen, Q., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Kennedy, A., and Haller, M. C.(1999a). “Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system.” J. Geophys. Res., 104(20), 617–20, 637.
Chen, Q., Madsen, P. A., and Basco, D. R.(1999b). “Current effects on nonlinear interactions of shallow-water waves.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 125(4), 176–186.
Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., and Chawla, A.(2000a). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. II: 2D.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 126(1), 48–56.
Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., Dalrymple, R. A., Kennedy, A. B., Thornton, E. B., and Shi, F. (2000b). “Boussinesq modeling of waves and longshore currents under field conditions.” Proc., 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, Reston, Va., 651–663.
Elgar, S., and Guza, R. T.(1985). “Shoaling gravity waves: Comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model.” J. Fluid Mech., 158, 47–70.
Hsiao, S., Liu, P. L.-F., and Chen, Y.(2002). “Nonlinear water waves propagating over a permeable bed.” Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 458(2022), 1291–1322.
Karambas, T. V., and Koutitas, C. A.(1992). “A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations.” Coastal Eng., 18(1-2), 1–19.
Kennedy, A. B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A.(2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. I: 1D.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 126(1), 39–47.
Kirby, J. T. (2002). “Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation, surfzone processes and wave-induced currents.” Advances in coastal engineering., V. C. Lakhan, ed., Elsevier Science, New York.
Li, Y. S., and Zhan, J. M.(2001). “Boussinesq-type model with boundary-fitted coordinate system.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 127(3), 152–160.
Li, Y. S., Liu, S. X., Yu, Y. X., and Lai, G. Z.(1999). “Numerical modeling of Boussinesq equations by finite element method.” Coastal Eng., 37(2), 97–122.
Madsen, P. A., and Sørensen, O. R.(1992). “A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics, 2. A slowly varying bathymetry.” Coastal Eng., 18(3-4), 183–204.
Madsen, P. A., Sørensen, O. R., and Schäffer, H. A.(1997). “Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq mode, I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves.” Coastal Eng., 32, 255–287.
Nwogu, O.(1993). “Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation.” J. Waterw., Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 119(6), 618–638.
Schäffer, H. A., Madsen, P. A., and Deigaard, R. A.(1993). “A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water.” Coastal Eng., 20(3-4), 185–202.
Shi, F., Dalrymple, R. A., Kirby, J. T., Chen, Q., and Kennedy, A.(2001). “A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model in generalized curvilinear coordinates.” Coastal Eng., 42(4), 337–358.
Smith, S. J., and Harkins, G. S. (1997). “Numerical wave model evaluations using laboratory data.” Proc., Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves ’97, Virginia Beach, Va., ASCE, Reston, Va., 271–285.
Sørensen O. R., and Sørensen L. S. (2000). “Boussinesq type modelling using unstructured finite element technique.” Proc., 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Sydney, ASCE, Reston, Va., 190–202.
Ursell, F.(1953). “The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves.” Proc., Cambridge Philos. Soc., 49(4), 685–694.
Veeramony, J., and Svendsen, I. A.(2000). “The flow in surf zone waves.” Coastal Eng., 39(2-4), 93–122.
Wei, G., Kirby, J. T., Grilli, S. T., and Subramanya, R.(1995). “A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves, Part 1: Highly nonlinear unsteady waves.” J. Fluid Mech., 294, 71–92.
Wei, G., Kirby, J. T., and Sinha, A.(1999). “Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method.” Coastal Eng., 36(4), 271–299.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 129Issue 3May 2003
Pages: 124 - 135

History

Received: Dec 11, 2001
Accepted: Nov 8, 2002
Published online: Apr 15, 2003
Published in print: May 2003

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Fengyan Shi
Research Associate, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.
James T. Kirby, M.ASCE
Professor, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.
Robert A. Dalrymple, F.ASCE
Professor, Dept. of Civil Engineering, The Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, MD 21218.
Qin Chen
Professor, Dept. of Civil Engineering, Univ. of South Alabama, Mobile, AL 36688.

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share