Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods in Waters of Any Depth
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 126, Issue 3
Abstract
The short-term joint distribution of wave heights and periods gives an informative description of a sea state that is well suited for many practical applications in the coastal zone. This paper deals with modifications and extensions of recently published results, expressed in terms of the joint probability density function of wave heights and periods. The performance of the present model is shown to be improved as compared with experimental data. Waves of any bandwidth are treated in deep water as well as over a uniformly sloping bottom. The modifications of the joint distribution in deep water refer to the estimation of wave periods, the separation of swell from sea waves, and the accommodation of a breaking criterion. The modified joint distribution is then transformed as waves move in shallow water, through a wave-by-wave technique incorporating nonlinear shoaling of both Stokes third-order and cnoidal waves, depth-induced wave breaking, and wave reforming. Comparisons with experimental measurements show improved performance over past models.
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Information & Authors
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 126 • Issue 3 • May 2000
Pages: 162 - 172
History
Received: Feb 24, 1998
Published online: May 1, 2000
Published in print: May 2000
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