Transport of Fine Sands by Currents and Waves. III: Breaking Waves over Barred Profile with Ripples
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 125, Issue 2
Abstract
This paper presents an analysis of a series of laboratory measurements of horizontal velocity and suspended sediment concentration (arrayed vertically) at a number of locations across a simulated shallow water bar built in fine sands (D50 = 95 μm) and subjected to irregular waves of varying significant wave height but with a constant spectral shape (JONSWAP spectrum). Near the bar crest the net suspended transport rates, integrated between the lowest measurement point and the water surface (measured zone), are dominated by the time-averaged (current-induced) transport resulting from undertow. Away from the bar crest the net suspended sediment transport in the measured zone resulting from high-frequency oscillatory currents is important (and dominant) and directed offshore everywhere. Comparison of the measured suspended transport rates and those derived from bed elevation changes over time reveals significant fluxes in the unmeasured zone near the bed. These are inferred as being driven by high-frequency oscillatory transport very close to the bed and are critical for understanding bar morphological changes. Finally, the laboratory results are compared with results from field experiments.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Bosman, J., and Steetzel, H. J. ( 1986). “Time- and bed-averaged concentrations under waves.” Proc., 20th ICCE, ASCE, Taipei.
2.
Dally, W. R. ( 1987). “Longshore bar formation—surf beat or undertow?” Proc., Coast. Sediments '87, ASCE, New Orleans, La., 71–85.
3.
Dean, R. G. ( 1973). “Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone.” Proc., Conf. on Engrg. Dyn. in Coast. Zone, National Committee on Coastal and Ocean Engineering of the Institute of Engineers, Sydney, Australia.
4.
Galvin, C. J. ( 1968). “Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches.” J. Geophys. Res., 73(12).
5.
Grasmeijer, B. T. ( 1996). “Sediment concentrations and transport in case of irregular breaking waves and currents over plane and barred profiles.” Rep. H2466, Parts J and K. Delft Hydr., Coast. Engrg. Dept., Delft Univ. of Technol., Delft, The Netherlands.
6.
Grasmeijer, B. T., and Sies, E. M. ( 1995). “Sediment concentrations and sediment transport in case of irregular breaking waves over a plane sloping bed and a barred profile.” Rep. H2466, Parts H and I. Delft Hydr., Coast. Engrg. Dept., Delft Univ. of Technol., Delft, The Netherlands.
7.
Greenwood, B., and Davidson-Arnott, R. G. D. ( 1979). “Sedimentation and equilibrium in wave-formed bars: A review and case study.” Can. J. Earth Sci., 16, 312–332.
8.
Guza, R. T., Thornton, E. B., and Holman, R. A. ( 1984). “Swash on steep and shallow beaches.” Proc., Coast. Engrg. '84, ASCE, New York, 708–723.
9.
Holman, R. A., and Sallenger, A. H. ( 1993). “Sand bar generation: A disussion of the Duck experiment series.” J. Coast. Res., Special Issue, 15, 76–92.
10.
List, J. H. ( 1987). “Wave groupiness as a source of nearshore long waves.” Proc., Coast. Engrg. '86, 497–511.
11.
List, J. H. ( 1992). “A model for the generation of two dimensional surf beat.” J. Geophys. Res., 97(C4), 5623–5635.
12.
Longuet-Higgens, M. S. ( 1953). “Mass transport in water waves.” Royal Soc. Phil. Trans., London, 245(A903), 535–581.
13.
O'Hare, T. J., and Huntley, D. A. ( 1993). “Sand bar evolution beneath partially-standing waves: Laboratory experiments and model simulations.” Continental Shelf Res., 13(11), 1149–1181.
14.
O'Hare, T. J., and Huntley, D. A. ( 1994). “Bar formation due to wave groups and associated long waves.” Marine Geology, 116, 313–325.
15.
Osborne, P. D., and Greenwood, B. G. ( 1992). “Frequency-dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 2: A barred shoreface.” Marine Geology, 106, 25–51.
16.
Osborne, P. D., and Vincent, C. E. ( 1996). “Vertical and horizontal structure in suspended sand concentrations and wave-induced fluxes over bedforms.” Marine Geology, 131, 195–208.
17.
Ribberink, J. S., and Al-Salem, A. ( 1992). “Time-dependent sediment transport phenomena in oscillatory boundary layer flow under sheet flow conditions.” Rep. H840, Part 6, Delft Hydaulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
18.
Roelvink, J. A., and Stive, M. J. F. ( 1989). “Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach.” J. Geophys. Res., 94(C4), 4785–4800.
19.
Ruessink, B. G. ( 1995). “On the origin of infragravity waves in the surf zone of a dissipative multiple bar system.” Proc., Coast. Dyn. '95, ASCE, New York, 93–104.
20.
Van Rijn, L. C., and Havinga, F. J. (1995). “Transport of fine sands by currents and waves: II.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 121(2), 123–133.
21.
Van Rijn, L. C., Nieuwjaar, M. W. C., Van der Kaay, T., Nap, E., and Van Kampen, A. (1993). “Transport of fine sands by currents and waves.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 119(2), 123–143.
22.
Vincent, C. E., and Green, M. O. ( 1990). “Field measurements of the suspended sand concentration profiles and fluxes and of the resuspension coefficient over a rippled bed.” J. Geophys. Res., 95(C7), 11591–11601.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
History
Published online: Mar 1, 1999
Published in print: Mar 1999
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.