Distribution of Extreme Waves Behind a Shoal
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 125, Issue 1
Abstract
In 1989 Vincent and Briggs found that irregular waves with directional spread typical of natural wave systems were not as strongly focused behind a shoal as would be predicted from use of monochromatic waves. These conclusions were based on an analysis of significant wave height alone. Reexamination of the data in terms of Hmax and H1/100 indicated that the largest waves behind the shoal were close to those predicted from the Rayleigh distribution based on the observed significant height.
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References
1.
Briggs, M. J., and Vincent, C. L. ( 1993). “Wave transformation in the lee of a dredged material placement site.” 26th Dredging Seminar, Texas A & M Univ. CDS Rep. No. 327, College Station, Tex., 74–84.
2.
Briggs, M. J., Thompson, E. F., and Vincent, C. L. (1995). “Wave diffraction around breakwater.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 121(1), 23–35.
3.
Ozkan, H. T., and Kirby, J. T. ( 1993). “Evolution of breaking directional spectral waves in the nearshore zone.” Proc., Oc. Wave Measurement and Analysis, ASCE, New York, 849–862.
4.
Panchang, V. G., Pearce, B. R., Wei, G., and Briggs, M. J. (1990). “Numerical simulation of irregular wave propagation over shoal.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 116(3), 324–340.
5.
Vincent, C. L., and Briggs, M. J. (1989). “Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 115(2), 269–284.
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Published online: Jan 1, 1999
Published in print: Jan 1999
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