Experiments on Nonlinear Wave Groups in Intermediate Water Depth
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 124, Issue 6
Abstract
Evolution of nonlinear wave groups of various initial envelope shapes is studied experimentally in a wave tank. Experiments are performed for different values of the water depth in the tank. The experimental results are compared with the calculations based on the cubic Schrödinger equation. Qualitatively different results are obtained for water depth values corresponding to different signs of the nonlinear term coefficient in the model equation. In relatively shallow water, the demodulation of wave groups is observed, while in a deeper water the maximum wave height increases along the tank due to the focusing, as expected.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Barnes, T., and Peregrine, D. H. (1995). “Wave groups approaching a beach: Full irrotational flow computations.”Proc., Coast. Dyn. '95, Abstracts, Gdansk, Poland, 7–8.
2.
Brinch-Nielsen, U., and Jonsson, I. G.(1986). “Fourth order evolution equation and stability analysis for Stokes waves on arbitrary water depth.”Wave Motion, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 8, 455–472.
3.
Dysthe, K. B. (1979). “Note on a modification to the nonlinear Schrödinger equation for application to deep water waves.”Proc., Royal Soc., London, A369, 105–114.
4.
Hahn, S. L. (1996). Hilbert transforms in signal processing. Artech House Inc., Norwood, Mass.
5.
Hasimoto, H., and Ono, J.(1972). “Nonlinear modulation of gravity waves.”J. Phys. Soc. Japan, Toyko, Japan, 33, 805–811.
6.
Hasselmann, K., et al. (1973). “Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP).”Deut. Hydrogr. Z., 8, Supplement A.
7.
Kit, E., Pelinovsky, E., and Talipova, T. (1995). “Transformation of probability distribution of wind waves in coastal zone.”Proc., 4th Int. Conf. on Port and Coast. Engrg. for Developing Countries (COPEDEC-4), Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 2344–2353.
8.
Lo, E., and Mei, C. C.(1985). “A numerical study of water-wave modulation based on a higher order nonlinear Schrödinger equation.”J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, U.K., 150, 395–416.
9.
Mei, C. C. (1989). The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. World Scientific, Singapore.
10.
Melville, W. K.(1983). “Wave modulation and breakdown.”J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, U.K., 128, 489–506.
11.
Ochi, M. K.(1982). “Stochastic analysis and probabilistic prediction of random seas.”Adv. in Hydroscience, 13, 217–375.
12.
Shahul Hameed, T. S., and Baba, M.(1985). “Wave height distribution in shallow water.”Oc. Engrg., 12, 309–319.
13.
Shemer, L., Kit, E., and Miloh, T.(1987). “Measurements of two- and three-dimensional waves in a channel, including the vicinity of cut-off frequencies.”Experiments in Fluids, 5, 66–72.
14.
Su, M. Y.(1982). “Evolution of groups of gravity waves with moderate to high steepness.”Phys. Fluids, 25, 2167–2174.
15.
Talipova, T., Pelinovsky, E., and Kit, E. (1995). “Wind wave simulation in coastal zone.”Proc., of Coast. Dyn. '95, Gdansk, Poland, 105–115.
16.
Trulsen, K., and Dysthe, K. B.(1996). “A modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water.”Wave Motion, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 24, 281–289.
17.
Trulsen, K., and Dysthe, K. B.(1997). “Frequency downshift in three-dimensional wave trains in a deep basin.”J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, U.K., 352, 359–373.
18.
Yuen, H. C., and Lake, B. M.(1975). “Nonlinear deep water waves: Theory and experiment.”Phys. Fluids, 18, 956–960.
19.
Yuen, H. C., and Lake, B. M.(1982). “Nonlinear dynamics of deep water gravity waves.”Adv. in Appl. Mech., 22, 67–229.
20.
Zakharov, V. E.(1968). “Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of deep fluid.”J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phys., 2, 190–194.
21.
Zakharov, V. E., and Shabat, A. B.(1972). “Exact theory of two-dimensional self-focusing and one-dimensional self-modulation of waves in nonlinear media.”Sov. Phys. JETP, 34, 62–69.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
Copyright © 1998 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Nov 1, 1998
Published in print: Nov 1998
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.