Simulation of Sand in Plunging Breakers
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 121, Issue 2
Abstract
A numerical model that simulates the sediment transport due to plunging breaking waves has been developed. A plunging breaker is simulated by superimposing a jet on a nonbreaking wave. The hydrodynamics are described by applying a discrete vortex model based on the mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian description of the cloud-in-cell method. Rotation is introduced in the flow where the jet impinges on the surface and in the boundary layer along the bottom. A combined diffusion-convection procedure provides a Lagrangian description of the suspended sediment. The pickup and initial suspension event in the boundary layer is simulated by a diffusion process, while the transport in the outer flow domain is simulated by convection, using the flow field provided by the hydrodynamic module. The bed-load transport is calculated by a conventional formula that relates the transport rate to the Shields parameter. A simulation over a complex bottom topography is compared to the full-scale laboratory experiments performed by Dette and Uliczka in 1986. The calculated and measured time-averaged concentration profiles show good agreement both with respect to the overall concentration levels and the cross-shore distribution.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Asp Hansen, E. (1990). “Added mass and inertia coefficients of groups of cylinders and of a cylinder near an arbitrarily shaped seabed.”Proc., 9th Int. Conf. on Offshore Mech. and Arctic Engrg., Vol. 1, Houston, Tex., 107–113.
2.
Asp Hansen, E., Fredsøe, J., and Deigaard, R. (1994). “Distribution of suspended sediment over wave-generated ripples.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 120(1).
3.
Battjes, J. A. (1988). “Surf-zone dynamics.”Annu. Rev. of Fluid Mech., Vol. 20, 257–293.
4.
Deigaard, R., Fredsøe, J., and Hedegaard, I. B.(1986). “Suspended sediment in the surf zone.”J. Wtry., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 112(1), 115–128.
5.
Dette, H., and Uliczka, K. (1986). “Velocity and sediment concentration fields across surf zones.”Proc., 20th Conf. on Coast. Engrg., Taipei, Taiwan, Vol. 2, 1062–1076.
6.
Engelund, F., and Fredsøe, J.(1976). “A sediment transport model for straight alluvial channel.”Nordic Hydrol., 7(5), 293–306.
7.
Fredsøe, J.(1984). “Turbulent boundary layer in wave and current motion.”J. Hydr. Engrg., ASCE, 110(8), 1103–1120.
8.
Fredsøe, J., Andersen, O. H., and Silberg, S.(1985). “Distribution of suspended sediment in large waves.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 111(6), 1041–1059.
9.
Fredsøe, J., and Deigaard, R. (1992). “Mechanics of coastal sediment transport.”World scientific, Advanced series on ocean engineering—Volume 3.
10.
Jansen, P. C. M. (1986). “Laboratory observations of the kinematics in the aerated region of breaking waves.”Coast. Engrg., Vol. 9, 453–477.
11.
Kinzelbach, W., and Uffink, G. (1989). “The random walk method and extensions in ground water flow.”NATO ASI series, series E: Applied sciences, Vol. 202, Kluwer Academic Publishers, Boston, Mass., 763–789.
12.
Kjeldsen, S. P., and Olsen, G. B. (1968). “Breaking waves,” Film for MSc thesis, Coast. Engrg. Lab., Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg. (ISVA), Tech. Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark (in Danish).
13.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Cokelet, E. D. (1976). “The deformation of steep surface waves on water. I: A numerical method of computation.”Proc., Royal Society, London, A 350, London, England, 1–26
14.
Miller, R. L. (1976). “Role of vortices in surf zone prediction: Sedimentation and wave forces.”Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation, SEPM Spec. Pub. 23, 92–114.
15.
Nadaoka, K. (1989). “Structure of the turbulent flow field under breaking waves in the surfzone.”J. Fluid Mech., Vol. 204, 359–387.
16.
Pedersen, C. (1993). “Numerical simulation of sediment transport due to plunging breaking waves.”Ser. Paper, Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg. (ISVA), Tech. Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark.
17.
Pedersen, C., Deigaard, R., Fredsøe, J., and Hansen, E. A. (1993). “Numerical simulation of sand in plunging breakers.”Proc., 23rd Conf. on Coast. Engrg., ASCE, New York, N.Y., Vol. 2, 2344–2357.
18.
Peregrine, D. H. (1983). “Breaking waves on beaches.”Annu. Rev. of Fluid Mech., Vol. 15, 149–178.
19.
Skourup, J. (1989). “A boundary integral equation model for the development of non-linear waves and their interaction with structures.”Ser. Paper No. 47, Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg. (ISVA), Tech. Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark.
20.
Svendsen, I. A., Madsen, P. A., and Hansen, J. B. (1978). “Wave characteristics in the surf zone.”Proc., 16th Conf. on Coastal Engrg., 520–539.
21.
Yde, L., and Asp Hansen, E. (1991). “Simulated high Reynolds number flow and forces on cylinder groups.”Proc., 10th Int. Conf. on Offshore Mech. and Arctic Engrg., 1-A, Stavanger, Norway, 71–80.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 121 • Issue 2 • March 1995
Pages: 77 - 87
Copyright
Copyright © 1995 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Mar 1, 1995
Published in print: Mar 1995
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.