Evolution of Maximum Amplitude of Solitary Waves on Plane Beaches
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 119, Issue 3
Abstract
This paper presents a study of the transformation of solitary waves on plane beaches. A series of laboratory experiments is presented to describe the amplitude evolution of long waves; these experiments suggest that at least four different regions exist for the functional variation of the maximum amplitude, two regions before and two regions after breaking. Linear theory is used to provide an expression for the growth of solitary waves evolving first over constant depth and then over a sloping bottom, including reflection. This result is shown to be equivalent to the wave evolution expression known as Green's law, and the limitations of Green's original derivation are discussed. Other existing analytical results and certain empirical relationships are used to produce a formulation consistent with the laboratory data with the objective to model the entire process of solitary wave evolution.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 119 • Issue 3 • May 1993
Pages: 323 - 342
Copyright
Copyright © 1993 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Jul 2, 1990
Published online: May 1, 1993
Published in print: May 1993
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