Measured Internal Kinematics for Shoaling Waves with Theoretical Comparisons
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 118, Issue 3
Abstract
Measurements of both the velocities and Eulerian accelerations have been made in the crests of waves at their breaking point. Measurement close to the wave surface (5 mm) has been made possible by the use of a very rapid response laser Doppler anemometer. The results have enabled critical comparisons to be made with mathematical wave models used in offshore design. At low levels within the waves, there is agreement between the theories, and the predictions are conservative. However, in the high crest most models seriously underpredict the kinematics. Validation of the models based on previously available results is shown to be limited in scope. This experiment was conducted in a wave flume using monochromatic waves shoaling on a flat bed and on slopes of 1:50, 1:30, and 1:15. Breaking wave heights were about 0.1 m, surface tension effects were negligible, and breaking occurred over a range of nondimensional depth from 0.004 to 0.035.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Buhr Hansen, J., and Svendsen, Ib. A. (1979). “Regular waves in shoaling water experimental data.” Series Paper No. 21, Inst. Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg., Tech. University of Denmark, Denmark.
2.
Chaplin, J. R. (1980). “Developments in stream‐function wave theory.” Coastal Engrg., 3, 179–205.
3.
Divoky, D., Le Mehaute, B., and Lin, A. (1970). “Breaking waves on gentle slopes.” J. Geophysical Res., 75, 1881–1892.
4.
Dommermuth, D. G., Yue, D. K. P., Lin, W. M., Rapp, R. J., Chan, E. S., and Melville, W. K. (1988). “Deep water plunging breakers: A comparison between potential theory and experiments.” J. Fluid Mech., 189, 423–442.
5.
Easson, W. J. (1987). “Velocity and force measurements in the splash zone.” J. Strain, 15–18.
6.
Easson, W. J., and Greated, C. A. (1984). “Breaking wave forces and velocity fields.” Coastal Engrg., 8, 233–241.
7.
Easson, W. J., and Greated, C. A. (1985). “Acceleration measurements using laser doppler anemometry.” Optics in engineering measurement, S.P.I.E.
8.
Flick, R. E., and Guza, R. T. (1980). “Paddle generated waves in laboratory channels.” J. Wtwy., Port, Coast, and Oc. Div., ASCE, 106(1), 79–97.
9.
Gray, C., and Greated, C. A. (1988). “The application of particle image velocimetry to the study of water wave.” Optics and Lasers in Engrg., 9, 265–276.
10.
Greated, C. A., and Manning, R. (1970). “Water waves measured with a laser flowmeter.” La Houille Blanche, 6, 567–570.
11.
Griffiths, M. W. P. (1989). “Breaking waves,” Ph.D. thesis, University of Edinburgh, Edinburgh, U.K.
12.
Hedges, T. S., and Kirkgoz, M. S. (1981). “An experimental study of the transformation zone of plunging breakers.” Coastal Engrg., 4, 319–333.
13.
Kjeldsen, S. P. (1981). “Design waves.” Report NHL 1 81008, Norwegian Hydrodynamics Lab., Trondheim, Norway.
14.
Kjeldsen, S. P., and Myrhaug, D. (1978). “Kinematics and dynamics of breaking waves.” Report STF 60A 78100, River and Harbour Lab., Trondheim, Norway.
15.
Kjeldsen, S. P., and Myrhaug, D. (1980). “Wave‐wave interactions, current‐wave interactions and resulting extreme wave and breaking waves.” Coastal Engrg., 2277–2303.
16.
Kjeldsen, S. P., Vinge, T., Myrhaug, D., and Brevig, P. (1980). “Kinematics of deep water breaking waves.” Proc. 12th Offshore Tech. Conference, 317–325.
17.
Mizuguchi, (1986). “Experimental study on kinematics and dynamics of wave breaking.” Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE
18.
New, A. L., McIver, P., and Peregrine, D. H. (1985). “Computations of overturning waves.” J. Fluid Mech., 150, 233–251.
19.
Peregrine, D. H. (1983). “Breaking waves on beaches.” American Review of Fluid Mech., 15, 149–178.
20.
Salter, S. H. (1981). “Absorbing wave makers and wide tanks.” Proc. Conf. on Directional Wave Spectra Applications, 1–16.
21.
Skjelbreia, J. E. (1987). “Observations of breaking waves on sloping bottoms by use of laser Doppler velocimetry,” Ph.D. thesis, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, Calif.
22.
Stive, M. J. F. (1985). “A scale comparison of waves breaking on a beach.” Coastal Engrg., 159–170.
23.
Stokes, G. G. (1847). “On the theory of oscillatory waves.” Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc., 8, 441–455.
24.
Svendsen, I. A., and Buhr Hansen, J. (1976). “Deformation up to breaking of periodic waves on a beach.” Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., 477–496.
25.
Van Dorn, W. G., and Pazan, S. E. (1975). “Laboratory investigation of wave breaking. Part II.” Report No. 75‐21, Scripps Inst. of Oceanography, Univ. of California, 39.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
Copyright © 1992 ASCE.
History
Published online: May 1, 1992
Published in print: May 1992
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.