Variations on Higher‐Order Shoaling
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 117, Issue 4
Abstract
Variations on the classical integral approach to shoaling may be categorized in terms of the choice of steady‐wave theory and, more importantly, the choice of dependent variables and conservation laws. One‐variable models (wave height) appear to underpredict both wave height and wave number, and assume that both undertow current and setup are zero. Models with two variables (wave height and undertow current) and three variables (wave height, undertow current, and setup) provide almost identical predictions of wave height, wave number, and undertow current. Setup, which is assumed to be zero in one‐ and two‐variable models, is predicted by three‐variable models. Fourier 18 predictions of the shoaling evolution of wave height, wave number, undertow current, and setup of the mean water level are presented for a range of deep‐water incident wave heights.
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Information & Authors
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 117 • Issue 4 • July 1991
Pages: 348 - 368
Copyright
Copyright © 1990 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1991
Published in print: Jul 1991
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