Wave Groupiness in Long‐Traveled Swell
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112, Issue 4
Abstract
Grouping of high waves in a long‐traveled swell recorded at a shallow water location is examined. The swell, with most of the energy concentrated within a narrow band of frequencies (0.040–0.075 Hz), is assumed to have originated in the southern Indian Ocean. The longest run of high waves identified contained 6 waves for and 16 waves for The observed probabilities of runlengths are in agreement with the theory of Kimura. Very high correlation between successive wave heights (up to 0.79) and significant correlation up to 5 waves apart, which is higher than all earlier reports, are observed. It is found that the correlation coefficient between successive wave heights (1) is a better parameter to define the length of runs of wave heights than the spectral peakedness parameter, The high values of runlengths observed raise doubts regarding the concept of a decrease of runlengths in shallow water, which has lately been confirmed by Thompson and Seelig.
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112 • Issue 4 • July 1986
Pages: 498 - 511
Copyright
Copyright © 1986 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1986
Published in print: Jul 1986
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