TECHNICAL NOTES
May 1, 1986

Polar Analysis of Short‐Crested Model Waves

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112, Issue 3

Abstract

The directional spectrum of short-crested waves in a model tank can be readily obtained from the spatial covariance function of the surface elevation. A convenient method to measure this function is based on a deployment of a set of conventional wave gauges mounted on a straight beam oriented sequentially in a number of directions. The measurements are thus obtained in a system of polar coordinates. An analysis method is presented here which remains in the polar domain. It is more accurate and cheaper than the conventional cartesian analysis.

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References

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Barber, N. F. (1963). “The directional resolving power of an array of wave detectors,” Ocean Wave Spectra, Prentice Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J., pp. 137–150.
2.
Hasle, E. K., and Stansberg, C. T. (1984). “Directional frequency spectrum analysis by means of spatial wave correlation measurements,” Proceedings Symposium on Description and Modelling of Directional Seas, June 18–20, 1984, Copenhagen, paper B8.
3.
Jeffrys, E. R., Wareham, G. T., Rarnsden, N. A., and Platts, M. J. (1981). “Measuring directional spectra with the MLM,” Proc. Conf. Directional Wave Spectra Applications, 14–16 Sept., 1981, Univ. Cal. Berkeley, ASCE, pp. 203–219.
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Long, R. B., and Hasselmann, K. (1979). “A variational technique for extracting directional spectra for multi‐component wave data,” J. Physical Oceanography, Vol. 9, No. 2, pp. 373–381.
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Longuet‐Higgins, M. S. (1957). “The zstatistical analysis of a random, moving surface,” Phil. Trans. Royal Soc. London, Series A, No. 966, Vol. 249, pp. 321–387.
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Pawka, S. S. (1974). “Study of wave climate in nearshore waters,” Proc. Int. Symp. Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Sept. 9–11, 1974, New Orleans, pp. 745–760.
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Salter, S. H. (1981). “Absorbing wave‐makers and wide tanks,” Proceedings Conference on Directional Wave Spectra Applications, Sept. 14–16, 1981, Univ. of California, Berkeley, Calif., pp. 185–200.
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Stansberg, C. T. (1985), private communication.

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Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 112Issue 3May 1986
Pages: 449 - 453

History

Published online: May 1, 1986
Published in print: May 1986

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Authors

Affiliations

Leo H. Holthuijsen
Sr. Scientific Officer, Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Delft Univ. of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands
Nico Booij
Sr. Scientific Officer, Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Delft Univ. of Tech., Delft, The Netherlands

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