TECHNICAL NOTES
May 1, 1984

Analytical Determination of Wave Height Variation

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 110, Issue 2

Abstract

Explicit equations based on the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to derive an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation due to shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation on a beach with straight, parallel contours where the depth is a power function of the distance from the shoreline. The solution is simple enough to be handled by a handheld calculator and as accurate as the underlying linear wave theory justifies.

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References

1.
Bretschneider, C. L., and Reid, R. O., “Modification of Wave Height Due to Bottom Friction, Percolation, and Refraction,” Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memo No. 45, 1954.
2.
Carstens, M. R., Neilson, F. M., and Altinbilek, H. D., “Bed Forms Generated in the Laboratory under Oscillatory Flow,” Coastal Engineering Research Center, Technical Memo 28, Washington, D.C., 1969.
3.
Dean, R. G., “Equilibrium Beach Profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts,” Ocean Engineering Technical Report No. 12, Univ. of Delaware, Del., 1977.
4.
Grant, W. D., and Madsen, O. S., “Movable Bed Roughness in Unsteady Oscillatory Flow,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 87, 1982, pp. 469–481.
5.
Jonsson, I. G., “Wave Boundary Layers and Friction Factors,” Proceedings, 10th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Chapter 10, Tokyo, Japan.
6.
Lofquist, K. E. B., “Measurements of Oscillatory Drag on Sand Ripples,” Proceedings, 17th Coastal Engineering Conference, Sydney, Australia, 1980, pp. 3087–3106.
7.
Nielsen, P., “Explicit Formulae for Practical Wave Calculations,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. 6, No. 4, 1982, pp. 389–398.
8.
Nielsen, P., “Analytical Determination of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Refraction, Shoaling and Friction,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. 7, 1983, pp. 233–251.
9.
Svendsen, I. A., and Jonsson, I. G., “Hydrodynamics of Coastal Regions,” Den Private Ingenioerfond, Lyngby, Denmark, 1976.
10.
Vitale, P., “Sand Bed Friction Factors for Oscillatory Flows,” Proceedings, ASCE, Vol. 106, No. WW3, 1979, pp. 229–245.

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Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 110Issue 2May 1984
Pages: 283 - 287

History

Published online: May 1, 1984
Published in print: May 1984

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Authors

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Peter Nielsen
Asst. Prof., Coastal and Oceanographic Engrg. Dept., Univ. of Florida, Gainesville, Fla. 32611

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