Wave Cuts in Sand Slopes Applied to Coastal Models
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 110, Issue 1
Abstract
In selected laboratory tests of sand slope development by waves, the elevations of two types of subaqueous wave‐cut feature are explained by quantitative thresholds in wave‐sand interactions. One feature is a seaward limit to nearshore‐eroding wave processes, and the other is a seaward limit to constructive wave effects. These two calculable water depths usually define the extent of moderate sand agitation by shoaling waves. The basic type of wavedeveloped profile is found to depend on sand settling velocity and wave characteristics at the erosive wave cut, but not on details of surf processes as measured by a surf‐similarity number. These results, together with available knowledge of the equilibrium profile, are examined to define some requirements for an accurate model of the active nearshore sediment bed. With quartz sand in water and Froude‐scaled waves, a model would require an unusually long and deep wave tank. Several modeling compromises appear necessary in the planar profile segment of moderate bed agitation, so that restricting laboratory models to the curved shoreface profile segment seems advisable.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Battjes, J.A. “Surf similarity,” Proceeding of the 14th conference on coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, 1974, pp. 466–480.
2.
Bruun, P., “Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles,” Technical Memorandum No. 44, U.S. Army Engineers Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., 1954.
3.
Chesnutt, C. B., “Laboratory Effects in Beach Studies, Volume VIII: Analysis of Results from 10 Movable‐Bed Experiments,” Miscellaneous Report No. 77‐7 (VIII), U.S. Army Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., 1978.
4.
Chesnutt, C. B., and Galvin, C. J., “Lab Profile and Reflection Changes for ” Proceedings of the 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, 1974, pp. 958–977.
5.
Dean, R. G., “Heuristic Models of Sand Transport in the Surf Zone,” Proceedings of Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, Australia, 1973, pp. 208–214.
6.
Dean, R. G., “Equilibrium Beach Profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts,” Ocean Engineering Report No. 12, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, Del., 1977.
7.
Eagleson, P. S., Glenne, B., and Dracup, J. A., “Equilibrium Characteristics of Sand Beaches in the Offshore Zone,” Technical Memorandum No. 126, U.S. Army Engineers Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., 1961.
8.
Everts, C. H., “Geometry of Profiles Across Inner Continental Shelves of the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of the United States,” Technical Paper No. 78‐4, U.S. Army Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., 1978.
9.
Gourlay, M. R., “Beaches: Profiles, Processes and Permeability,” Research Report No. CE14, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St. Lucia, Australia, 1980.
10.
Hallermeier, R. J., “Calculating a Yearly Limit Depth to the Active Beach Profile,” Technical Paper No. 77‐9, U.S. Army Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., 1977.
11.
Hallermeier, R. J., “Uses for a Calculated Limit Depth to Beach Erosion,” Proceedings of the 16th Coastal Engineering Conference, Hamburg, West Germany, 1978, pp. 1493–1512.
12.
Hallermeier, R. J., “Sand Motion Initiation by Water Waves: Two Asymptotes,” Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Division, ASCE, Vol. 106, No. WW3, Proc. Paper 15603, Aug., 1980, pp. 299–318.
13.
Hallermeier, R. J., “Terminal Settling Velocity of Commonly Occurring Sand Grains,” Sedimentology, Vol. 28, 1981, pp. 859–865.
14.
Hattori, M., and Kawamata, R., “Experiments on Restoration of Beaches Backed by Seawalls,” Coastal Engineering in Japan, Vol. 20, 1977, pp. 55–68.
15.
Horikawa, K., Sunamura, T., and Kitoh, H., “A Study of Beach Transformation by Wave Action,” Proceedings of the 20th Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (in Japanese), 1973, pp. 357–363.
16.
Horikawa, K., Sunamura, T., Kondo, H., and Okuda, S., “Experimental Study on the Change of a Two‐Dimensional Slope by Waves,” Proceedings of the 22nd Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering, (in Japanese), 1975, pp. 329–334.
17.
Hughes, S. A., and Chiu, T. Y., “The Variations in Beach Profiles When Approximated by a Theoretical Curve,” Report No. TR‐039, Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, University of Florida, Gainesville, Fla., 1978.
18.
Iwagaki, Y., and Noda, H., “Laboratory Study of Scale Effects in Two‐Dimensional Beach Processes,” Proceedings of the 8th Coastal Engineering Conference, Mexico City, Mexico, 1962, pp. 194–210.
19.
Kamphuis, J. W., “The Coastal Mobile Bed Model,” C.E. Report No. 75, Department of Civil Engineering, Queen's University at Kingston, Ontario, Canada, 1975.
20.
Kemp, P. H., “The Relationship Between Wave Action and Beach Profile Characteristics,” Proceedings of the 7th Coastal Engineering Conference, The Hague, Netherlands, 1960, pp. 262–277.
21.
Keulegan, G. H., and Krumbein, W. C., “Stable Configuration of Bottom Slope in a Shallow Sea and Its Bearing on Geological Processes,” Transactions, American Geophysical Union, Vol. 30, No. 6, 1949, pp. 855–861.
22.
Longinov, V. V., “The Possibility of Forecasting Transient Coastal Relief Changes by Waves,” in Dynamics and Morphology of Sea Coasts, Israel Program for Scientific Translations, Jerusalem, 1969, pp. 284–329.
23.
Maksimchuk, V. L., “Model Studies of the Beach Processes and Similarity Requirements,” Proceedings, Diamond Jubilee Symposium, Central Water and Power Research Station, Pune, India, Vol. I, 1976, pp. A12‐1–A12‐18.
24.
Masuda, S., and Ito, M., “Analysis of Beach Processes by Means of the Design of Experiments,” Coastal Engineering in Japan, Vol. 18, 1975, pp. 75–93.
25.
Monroe, F. F., “Oolitic Aragonite and Quartz Sand: Laboratory Comparison Under Wave Action,” Miscellaneous Paper No. 1‐69, U.S. Army Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, Washington, D.C., 1969.
26.
Noda, H., “Scale Relations for Equilibrium Beach Profiles,” Proceedings of the 16th Coastal Engineering Conference, Hamburg, Germany, 1978, pp. 1531–1541.
27.
Ozaki, A., and Watanabe, H., “Scale Effect in the Experiment of Two‐Dimensional Beach Profile Changes,” Proceedings of the 23rd Japanese Coastal Engineering Conference (in Japanese), 1976, pp. 200–205.
28.
Paul, M. J., Kamphuis, J. W., and Brebner, A., “Similarity of Equilibrium Beach Profiles,” Proceedings of the 13th Coastal Engineering Conference, Vancouver, Canada, 1972, pp. 1217–1236.
29.
Raman, H., and Earattupuzha, J. J., “Equilibrium Conditions in Beach Wave Interaction,” Proceedings of the 13th Coastal Engineering Conference, Vancouver, Canada, 1972, pp. 1237–1256.
30.
Rector, R. L., “Laboratory Study of Equilibrium Profile of Beaches,” Technical Memorandum No. 41, U.S. Army Engineers Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., 1954.
31.
Saville, T., Jr., “Scale Effects in Two‐Dimensional Beach Studies,” Proceedings of the 7th International Association for Hydraulics Research Congress, Lisbon, Portugal, 1957, pp. A3‐1‐A3–10.
32.
Sawaragi, T., and Deguchi, I., “On‐offshore Sediment Transport Rate in the Surf Zone,” Proceedings of the 17th Coastal Engineering Conference, Sydney, Australia, 1980, in press.
33.
Shay, E. A., and Johnson, J. W., “Sand Movement in Two‐Dimensional Wave Motion (Waves Perpendicular to a Beach in a Narrow Channel),” Series No. 14, Issue No. 5, Institute of Engineering Research, University of California, Berkeley, Calif., 1950.
34.
Sunamura, T., and Horikawa, K., “Two‐Dimensional Beach Transformation Due to Waves,” Proceedings of the 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, 1974, pp. 920–938.
35.
Swart, D. H., “Offshore Sediment Transport and Equilibrium Beach Profiles,” Publication No. 131, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands, 1974.
36.
Tanaka, N., and Shinbo, O., “The Properties of Coal Grains as Bed Material in the Model Experiment on Littoral Drift,” Report of the Port and Harbour Research Institute (in Japanese), Nagase, Yokosuka, Japan, Vol. 12, No. 1, Mar., 1973, pp. 3–57.
37.
Watanabe, A., Riho, Y., Horikawa, K., “Beach Profiles and Onshore‐Offshore Sediment Transport,” Proceedings of the 17th Coastal Engineering Conference, Sydney, Australia, 1980, in press.
38.
Waters, C. H., “Equilibrium Slopes of Sea Beaches,” thesis presented to the University of California, at Berkeley, Calif., in 1939, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science.
39.
Watts, G. M., and Dearduff, R. F., “Laboratory Study of Effect of Tidal Action on Wave‐Formed Beach Profiles,” Technical Memorandum No. 52, U.S. Army Engineers Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., 1954.
40.
Zenkovich, V. P., Processes of Coastal Development, Interscience Publishers, New York, N.Y., 1967, p. 109.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
Copyright © 1984 ASCE.
History
Published online: Feb 1, 1984
Published in print: Feb 1984
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.