Orbital Motion of Water Particles in Oscillatory Waves
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 109, Issue 2
Abstract
The trajectory of a water particle in an oscillatory wave field has been studied by following the movement of the particle. The particle position at the end of each small time increment is calculated using the Eulerian velocity specifications. The results show the path of water particle is not a closed orbit and the calculated mass-transport velocity is in general agreement with Storkes formula. For the second-order waves, the present results demonstrate a much smaller mass-transport velocity than that predicted by the Storkes formula. In addition, the present study shows that a water particle does not return to the initial depth level at the end of each wave period. Instead, it moves in an oscillatory nature in the direction of wave propagation at a period much longer rate than the water waves.
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References
1.
LeMehaute, B., “An Introduction to Hydrodynamics and Water Waves,” Water Wave Theories, Vol. II, TRERL 118‐POL‐3‐2, U.S. Department of Commerce ESSA, Washington, D.C., 1969.
2.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S., “On the Transport of Mass by Time‐varying Ocean Currents,” Deep‐Sea Research, Vol. 16, Pergamon Press, Inc., New York, N.Y., 1969, pp. 431–447.
3.
Shore Protection Manual, U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, Department of the Army, Vol. 1, 1977.
4.
Wiegel, R. L., Oceanographical Engineering, Prentice‐Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J., 1964.
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Copyright © 1983 ASCE.
History
Published online: May 1, 1983
Published in print: May 1983
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