Research Article
Sep 1968
Beaches Produced by Waves of Low Phase Difference
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VIEW THE REPLYAuthors: Patrick H. Kemp and David PlinstonAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Journal of the Hydraulics Division
Volume 94, Issue 5
Abstract
A theoretical and experimental study of the action of swell waves on model beaches shows that the beach slope and the distance from the shore to the breakers correlate with the breaker height, wave period and grain diameter. The experiments were carried out using quartz sands and wave periods in the range of 0.8 sec to 1.34 sec. Wave heights were used up to a maximum breaker height of 6 cm. The waves employed were of low phase difference, i.e., the ratio of time of uprush to wave period being less than 0.7. When this ratio is exceeded, the wave period ceases to be important. Using a continuity approach it is shown that the energy lost in breaking, friction and turbulence and in moving material, amounts to about 25% of the incident wave energy when the beach angle is highest, to about 50% when the beach is at its lowest level within the range considered.
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Published In
Journal of the Hydraulics Division
Volume 94 • Issue 5 • September 1968
Pages: 1183 - 1196
Copyright
© 1968 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published in print: Sep 1968
Published online: Feb 3, 2021
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Authors
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Patrick H. Kemp
Senior Lecturer, Dept. of Civil Eng., Univ. College London
David Plinston
Scientific.Officer, Hydrological Research Unit, Wallingford, England
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