Mass Transport in Shallow Water Waves

The mass-transport velocity near the seabed has previously been calculated to first and second approximations for both Stokes and cnoidal waves. A set of curves based on these predictions is presented in a convenient form and permits a ready estimate of the bottom mass transport for any given conditions. Experiments conducted to test the predictions are described. These, as well as previous experiments, indicate reasonable agreement with the theoretical predictions. Although the onset of turbulence limits the range of validity of the curves, they may still be used but with less reliability. The condition for transition to a turbulent boundary layer adopted by some authors is found to be questionable.