Research Article
Nov 1969
Refraction of Continuous Ocean Wave Spectra
Publication: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division
Volume 95, Issue 4
Abstract
The governing equation describing the propagation of a continuous ocean wave spectrum in water of any depth is derived and analyzed. The derivation of the equation is based upon the assumption that each component of the spectrum, defined by a given direction and frequency, is propagated according to linear-wave theory, and single period regular wave refraction relationships are employed. A computer program has been prepared to solve the equation numerically for steady-state conditions where no wind, friction, or currents are present to modify the spectrum. These are the same conditions that are usually assumed in single period wave refraction studies. From a known distribution of the deep water wave spectrum the program predicts the changes in the spectrum as it travels into shallow water of a given bottom topography. Results of a few numerical examples are presented.
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Published In
Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division
Volume 95 • Issue 4 • November 1969
Pages: 437 - 448
Copyright
© 1969 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published in print: Nov 1969
Published online: Feb 12, 2021
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Authors
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Thorbjorn Karlsson
Sr. Research Engr., Science Engrg. Assocs., San Marino, Calif.
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Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.