Research Article
May 1969
Breaker Travel and Choice of Design Wave Height
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VIEW THE REPLYPublication: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division
Volume 95, Issue 2
Abstract
Experiments on three-plane laboratory beaches show that plunging waves travel a horizontal distance of from four to eight times breaker height during the breaking process. This suggests that the potentially damaging effect of breaking waves may be spread over a significant horizontal distance. The experiments, as well as previously available data, show that breaker depth-to-height ratios for plunging waves decrease from above 1.3 to below 0.9 as beach slope increases, so that higher waves on steeper slopes may approach nearer to shore before breaking. The combined effect of breaker travel and breaker depth-to-height ratio is such that structures sited in shallow water on moderate or steep slopes can be subject to breaking wave heights significantly larger than the design heights computed according to accepted practice. The experimental results are consistent with a solitary wave description of oscillatory waves at breaking, if the breaker depths of oscillatory waves are appropriately defined, and they are consistent with the limiting heights of breaking waves measured on rubble-mound breakwaters.
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Published In
Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division
Volume 95 • Issue 2 • May 1969
Pages: 175 - 200
Copyright
© 1969 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published in print: May 1969
Published online: Feb 12, 2021
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Authors
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Cyril J. Galvin Jr., AM.ASCE
Oceanographer, U.S. Army Coastal Engrg. Research Center, Wash., D.C.
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Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.