Water Wave Over a Rectangular Channel Through a Reef

A practical method for predicting characteristics of waves propagating over a submarine channel, of rectangular cross section, is presented. The method was based on experimental results and theoretical models. The ripple tank proved to be a useful tool in wave refraction studies. In the case when waves propagate over an abrupt bottom discontinuity normal to their crests, the following were observed: (a) The adjacent wave fronts in both sides of the discontinuity were connected by smooth transitions, (b) two straight lines could be drawn, inclined to the discontinuity to define the transition zones, (c) the angles between the discontinuity and the two straight lines defining the transition zones in the deep and shallow sides were not constant. They vary with the ratio (h₁/L₁)/(h₂/L₂).