Brief Report
Aug 1979

Transformation of Random Wave Spectrum on Beaches

Publication: Journal of the Engineering Mechanics Division
Volume 105, Issue 4

Abstract

This paper presents a new analytic solution to the problem of predicting the change of energy as random waves propagate from deep water towards the shore lines. Some relevant results of the deterministic wave theory are first reviewed along with the classical result of Longuet-Higgins on the transformation of a continuous wave spectrum based on the concepts of the conservation of energy flux.

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Journal of the Engineering Mechanics Division
Volume 105Issue 4August 1979
Pages: 711 - 717

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Published in print: Aug 1979
Published online: Feb 3, 2021

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Cheng Y. Yang, M.ASCE
Prof., Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del.
Yun Hai Chen
Research Fellow of Civ. Engrg., Univ. of California, Berkeley, Calif.; formerly, Research Fellow, Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del.

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