Research Article
Feb 1975
Computation of Wave Heights Due to Refraction and Friction
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VIEW THE REPLYAuthors: Ove Skovgaard, Ivar G. Jonsson, and Jens A. BertelsenAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division
Volume 101, Issue 1
Abstract
The equations for the wave orthogonals and the wave heights are presented for depth refraction of regular, long-crested, small amplitude surface gravity waves over an arbitrary bottom, using time as the independent variable. The effect of turbulent bottom friction on the wave height is included. The computer outputs are in the form of automatically plotted wave orthogonals with the wave heights written at discrete points along these paths. Systematic tests are presented for water areas with straight and parallel bottom contours. The errors inherently connected with the introduction of a grid plus a set of formulas for the differentiation and interpolation are examined for a horizontal bottom with an infinite long sinusoidal threshold. For one plane sloping bottom, information is given for the influence of the initial curvature of the wave front, bottom roughness, and initial wave height.
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Published In
Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division
Volume 101 • Issue 1 • February 1975
Pages: 15 - 32
Copyright
© 1975 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published in print: Feb 1975
Published online: Feb 12, 2021
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Authors
Affiliations
Ove Skovgaard
Research Fellow, Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg., Technical Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark
Ivar G. Jonsson
Assoc. Prof., Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydr. Engrg., Technical Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark
Jens A. Bertelsen
Research Engr., Danish Hydr. Inst., Computational Hydr. Centre, Danish Academy of Tech. Sci., Copenhagen, Denmark
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