Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Researches on the Deformation of Wave Spectra in Intermediate Water Area by Calculation
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1972
Abstract
In order to devise more rational approach to predicat the wave features in intermediate water area, energy spectra in deep water area are to be changed to histograms, and every stripe of the histogram is to represent an elementary small amplitude wave. The deformation of such elementary waves over intermediate water area can be calculated theoretically by energy flux equation. Spectra in intermediate area can be worked out by summing up the wave energies deformed by shoaling, bottom friction and refraction.
Calculation are carried out by computer. The peak of spectra will never change when it propagates from deep water to intermediate water area if the bottom contours are parallel to the shore line. Tangible process for using this approach to practical engineering problems is pending investigation.
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Information
Published In
Coastal Engineering 1972
Pages: 271 - 288
Copyright
© 1973 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
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Frederick L. W. Tang, Dr. Eng.
Professor and Chairman Hydraulic Engineering Department National Cheng Kung University Tainan, Taiwan, Republic of China
Shan-Hwei Ou
Graduate Student, Ditto
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