Influence of Spectral Width on Wave Height Parameter Estimates in Coastal Environments
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Abstract
In this study, we present comparisons of wave height estimates using data from acoustic Doppler wave gauges in ten coastal and estuarine environments. The results confirm that the agreement between significant wave height estimates based on spectral moments versus zero-crossing analysis is linked to the underlying narrow band assumption, and that a divergence from theory occurs as spectral width increases with changes in the wave field. Long-term measurements of the maximum to significant wave height ratio, , show a predictable dependence on the site-specific wave climate and sampling scheme. As an engineering tool for other investigators, we present empirically derived equations relating and to the spectral bandwidth parameter, , and evaluate two procedures to predict from the spectrum when the surface elevation time series is unavailable. Comparisons with observations at each site demonstrate the utility of the methods to predict within 10% on average.
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Acknowledgments
The writers would like to thank researchers at NOAA, U.S. Coast Guard Academy, Dalhousie University, UNC-Wilmington, UCSD Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP), Rutgers University, University of South Florida, and Nortek-AS for providing access to the datasets examined in this study. Support for VIMS investigators was provided by the Office of Naval Research, Processes and Prediction Program, Award No. ONRN00014-05-1-0493.
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Received: Sep 1, 2006
Accepted: May 21, 2007
Published online: May 1, 2008
Published in print: May 2008
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