Abstract

A simple formula to determine the wave breaking depth index for regular waves is proposed. In the literature, there are several formulas for determining the breaker depth index, which, over the years, have gradually evolved by improving advanced measurement tools. The proposed formula has been obtained by means of dimensional analysis and incomplete self-similarity, and it has been calibrated and verified by using a large breaker depth index database yield fairing good predictions for a wide range of wave conditions and beach slopes. The application of some existing formulas for determining the breaker depth index has been examined by using previous published laboratory data compared with the new formula.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

References

Barenblatt, G. I. 1987. Dimensional analysis. New York: Gordon and Breach Science.
Battjes, J. A., and J. Janssen. 1978. “Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves.” In Proc., 16th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, 569–587. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Battjes, J. A., and M. J. F. Stive. 1985. “Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves.” J. Geophys. Res. 90 (C5): 9159–9167. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC05p09159.
Bowen, A. J., D. L. Inman, and V. P. Simmons. 1968. “Wave ‘set-down’ and set-up.” J. Geophys. Res. 73 (8): 2569–2577. https://doi.org/10.1029/JB073i008p02569.
Camenen, B., and M. Larson. 2007. “Predictive formulas for breaker depth index and breaker type.” J. Coastal Res. 234 (4): 1028–1041. https://doi.org/10.2112/05-0566.1.
CIRIA, CUR, and CETMEF (Construction Industry Research and Information Association, Building and Infrastructure, and Centre d’etudes Techniques Maritimes et fluviales). 2007. “The rock manual.” In The use of rock in hydraulic engineering. 2nd ed. London: CIRIA.
Galvin, C. J., Jr. 1969. “Breaker travel and choice of design wave height.” J. Waterways, Harbors Div. 95 (2): 175–200.
Goda, Y. 1964. “Wave forces on a vertical circular cylinder: Experiments and proposed method of wave force computation.” Rep. Port Harbour Res. Inst. 8: 1–74.
Goda, Y. 1970. “A synthesis of breaker indices.” Trans. Jpn. Soc. Civ. Eng. 1970 (180): 39–49. https://doi.org/10.2208/jscej1969.1970.180_39.
Goda, Y. 1974. “New wave pressure formulae for composite breakwaters.” In Vol. 100 of Proc., 14th Conf. on Coastal Engineering, 1702–1720. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Goda, Y. 2010. “Reanalysis of regular and random breaking wave statistics.” Coastal Eng. J. 52 (1): 71–106. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563410002129.
Goda, Y., S. Haranaka, and M. Kitahata. 1966. “A study on impulsive breaking wave force upon a vertical pile.” [In Japanese.] Rep. Port Harbour Res. Inst. 5 (6): 1–30.
Iversen, H. W. 1951. “Laboratory study of breakers.” In Proc., NBS Semicentennial Symp. on Gravity Waves. Gaithersburg, MD: National Bureau of Standards.
Kamphuis, J. W. 1991. “Incipient wave breaking.” Coastal Eng. 15 (3): 185–203. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(91)90002-X.
Kishi, T., and S. Iohara. 1958. “Researches on coastal dikes (7)—Experimental study on wave transformation and breaking waves.” [In Japanese.] Rep. Public Works Res. Inst. 95: 185–197.
Lara, J. L., I. J. Losada, and P. L.-F. Liu. 2006. “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: Experimental and numerical analysis.” J. Geophys. Res. 111 (C11019): 1–26. https://doi.org/10.1029/2005JC003374.
Larson, M., and N. C. Kraus. 1989. SBEACH: Numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change.. Washington, DC: USACE.
Li, Y. C., G. H. Dong, and B. Teng. 1991. “Wave breaker indices in finite water depth.” China Ocean Eng. 27 (1): 51–64. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13344-013-0005-0.
Li, Y. C., Y. Yu, L. F. Cui, and G. H. Dong. 2000. “Experimental study of wave breaking on gentle slope.” China Ocean Eng. 14 (1): 59–67.
Liu, Y., X. Niu, and X. Yu. 2011. “A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking.” Coastal Eng. 58 (9): 877–889. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.004.
Miche, R. 1944. “Mouvements ondulatoires de lamer en profondeur ou décroissante.” [In French.] Annles Ponts Chaussées 19: 369–406.
Mitsuyasu, H. 1962. “Experimental study on wave force against a wall.” Coastal Eng. Jap. 5 (1): 23–47. https://doi./org/10.1080/05785634.1962.11924617.
Ostendorf, D., and O. Madsen. 1979. An analysis of longshore current and associated sediment transport in the surf zone. Boston: Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
Rattanapitikon, W., and T. Shibayama. 2018. “Verification and modification of breaker height formulas.” Coastal Eng. J. 42 (4): 389–406. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563400000195.
Saprykina, Y. V., S. Y. Kuznetsov, and B. V. Divinskii. 2017. “Influence of processes of nonlinear transformations of waves in the coastal zone on the height of breaking waves.” Oceanol. 57 (3): 383–393. https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437017020187.
Svendsen, I. A. 2006. “Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics.” In Vol. 24 of Advanced series on ocean engineering. Singapore: World Scientific.
Tomasicchio, G. R., and S. M. Kurdistani. Forthcoming. “A new prediction formula for pore pressure distribution inside rubble mound breakwater core.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000555.
Toyoshima, O., M. Tominaga, and H. Hashimoto. 1968. “Experimental study on wave transformation after breaking.” Rep. Public Works Res. Inst. 133: 121–129.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 146Issue 1January 2020

History

Received: Nov 16, 2018
Accepted: Apr 25, 2019
Published online: Oct 11, 2019
Published in print: Jan 1, 2020
Discussion open until: Mar 11, 2020

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio [email protected]
Full Professor, Dept. of Engineering for Innovation, Univ. of Salento, Ecotekne 73047, Lecce, Italy. Email: [email protected]
Sahameddin Mahmoudi Kurdistani, M.ASCE https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2614-2782 [email protected]
Assistant Professor, Dept. of Engineering for Innovation, Univ. of Salento, Ecotekne, Lecce 73047, Italy (corresponding author). ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2614-2782. Email: [email protected]
Felice D’Alessandro [email protected]
Assistant Professor, Dept. of Engineering for Innovation, Univ. of Salento, Ecotekne, Lecce 73047, Italy. Email: [email protected]
Leila Hassanabadi [email protected]
Research Assistant, Dept. of Civil Engineering, Univ. of Pisa, 56122 Pisa, Italy. Email: [email protected]

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share