Longshore Sediment Transport Rate Estimation near Harbor under Low and High Wave-Energy Conditions: Fluorescent Tracers Experiment
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 145, Issue 4
Abstract
The main objective of this research was to contribute to the comprehension of actual physical processes responsible for sand accumulations at the Cap Djinet harbor entrance and its immediate surroundings. This maritime infrastructure was implemented at the nearshore area of a sandy cap situated between the mouths of two wadis and bordered by sandy barred beaches classified in the microtidal intermediate beaches category. This stretch of coastline had never been investigated before, and given the importance of sedimentary transfer, an original dual experimental and modeling approach was adopted by using fluorescent tracers to identify sedimentary rates and flux directions under variable wave-energy conditions and testing the adaptability of four well-known formulas for longshore sediment transport predicting local sediment transport conditions. Offshore wave data covering the experimental period were extracted from the Wavewatch III database and input into a two-dimensional (2D) refraction–diffraction model to predict the nearshore wave conditions. The fluorescent tracing results revealed a convergence of sedimentary transfers toward the harbor for any offshore swell regime, with transfer rates reflecting conditions of low and high energy but remaining site specific to the morphodynamic state of each beach. A comparison of results of measured and predicted sedimentary fluxes indicated that the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) model yielded satisfactory results under high-energy conditions and that the Kamphuis model was valid under low-energy conditions.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
Aagaard, T., and M. G. Hughes. 2010. “Breaker turbulence and sediment suspension in the surf zone.” Mar. Geol. 271 (3–4): 250–259. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2010.02.019.
Anfuso, G. 2005. “Sediment-activation depth values for gentle and steep beaches.” Mar. Geol. 220 (1–4): 101–112. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2005.06.027.
Battjes, J. A., and J. P. F. M. Janssen. 1978. “Energy loss and set up due to breaking of random waves.” In Proc., 16th Int. Coastal Engineering Conf., 509–587. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Bergillos, R. J., M. Ortega-Sánchez, G. Masselink, and M. A. Losada. 2016. “Morpho-sedimentary dynamics of a micro-tidal mixed sand and gravel beach, Playa Granada, southern Spain.” Mar. Geol. 379: 28–38. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.05.003.
Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1972. “Computation of combined refraction–diffraction.” In Proc., 13th Coastal Engineering. Conf., 471–490. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Bertoni, D., G. Sarti, E. Grottoli, P. Ciavola, A. Pozzebon, G. Domokos, and T. Novák-Szabó. 2016. “Impressive abrasion rates of marked pebbles on a coarse-clastic beach within a 13-month timespan.” Mar. Geol. 381: 175–180. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.010.
Bijker, E. W. 1971. “Longshore transport computations.” J. Waterways, Harb. Coastal Eng. Div. 97 (4): 687–703.
Bosnic, I., J. Cascalho, R. Taborda, T. Drago, J. Hermínio, M. Rosa, J. Dias, and E. Garel. 2017. “Nearshore sediment transport: Coupling sand tracer dynamics with oceanographic forcing.” Mar. Geol. 385: 293–303. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2017.02.004.
Boutiba, M. 2006. “Géomorphologie dynamique et mouvements des sédiments le long de la côte Jijelienne (Est Algèrie).” Thèse de Doctorat d'état en Géomorphologie, Univ. of Science and Technology Houari Boumediene.
CERC (Coastal Engineering Research Center). 1984. Shore Protection Manual. Vol. I. Washington, DC: CERC Dept. of the Army, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
Ciavola, P., R. Taborda, Ó. Ferreira, and J. M. A. Dias. 1999. “Instantaneous bed level changes on a reflective foreshore.” G. Geol. 61: 211–213.
Darsen, J. 2013. “Beach state classification: The dissipative domain of Cocos Bay, (Manzanilla), Trinidad.” Caribbean J. Earth Sci. 46: 1–11.
Del Valle, R., R. Medina, and M. A. Losada. 1993. “Dependence of coefficient K on grain size.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 119 (5): 568–574. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1993)119:5(568).
Fernández-Fernández, S., et al. 2016. “Longshore transport estimation on Ofir Beach in northwest Portugal: Sand-tracer experiment.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 142 (2): 04015017. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000319.
Ferreira, Ó., P. Ciavola, R. Taborda, M. Bairros, and J. A. Dias. 2000. “Sediment mixing depth determination for steep and gentle foreshores.” J. Coastal Res. 16 (3): 830–839.
Goda, Y. 2013. “Empirical formulation of sediment pickup rate in terms of wave energy flux dissipation rate.” Coastal Eng. J. 55 (4): 1–17.
Grottoli, E., D. Bertoni, P. Ciavola, and A. Pozzebon. 2015. “Short term displacements of marked pebbles in the swash zone: Focus on particle shape and size.” Mar. Geol. 367: 143–158. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2015.06.006.
Guza, R. T., and D. L. Inman. 1975. “Edge waves and beach cusps.” J. Geophys. Res. 80 (21): 2997–3012. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC080i021p02997.
Holthuijsen, L. H., N. Booij, and T. H. C. Herbers. 1989. “A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents.” Coastal Eng. 13 (1): 23–54. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(89)90031-8.
Inman, D. L., and R. A. Bagnold. 1963. “Beach and Nearshore Processes; Part II: Littoral Processes.” In Vol. 3 of Contribution to the sea. Edited by M. N. Hille, 9–553. New York: John Wiley and Sons.
Inman, D. L., J. A. Zampol, T. E. White, D. M. Anes, B. W. Waldorf, and K. A. Kastens. 1980. “Field measurements of sand motion in the surf zone.” In Proc., 17th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, 1215–1234. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Jackson, N. L., K. F. Nordstrom, and E. J. Farrell. 2017. “Longshore sediment transport and foreshore change in the swash zone of an estuarine beach.” Mar. Geol. 386: 88–97. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2017.02.017.
Kamphuis, J. W. 1991. “Alongshore sediment transport rate.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 117 (6): 624–641. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1991)117:6(624).
Kamphuis, J. W., M. H. Davies, R. B. Nairn, and O. J. Sayao. 1986. “Calculation of littoral sand transport rate.” Coastal Eng. 10 (1): 1–21. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(86)90036-0.
Kermani, S., M. Boutiba, M. Guendouz, M. S. Said Guettouche, and D. Khelfani. 2016. “Detection and analysis of shoreline changes using geospatial tools and automatic computation: Case of jijelian sandy coast (East Algeria).” Ocean Coastal Manage. 132: 46–58. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2016.08.010.
Kobayashi, N., A. Agarwal, and B. D. Johnson. 2007. “Longshore current and sediment transport on beaches.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 133 (4): 296–304. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2007)133:4(296).
Komar, P. D., and D. L. Inman. 1970. “Longshore sand transport on beaches.” J. Geophys. Res. 75 (30): 5914–5927. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC075i030p05914.
Kraus, N. C., and J. L. Dean. 1987. “Longshore sediment transport rate distributions measured by trap.” In Proc., Coastal Sediment 87: 88–898. Reston, VA: ASCE.
Levoy, F., O. Monfort, and C. Laronneur. 1997. “Solid transport on macrotidal beaches: Fluorescent tracing and application to the west coast of Cotentin (France).” J. d'Oceanologia 20 (6): 811–822.
Loureiro, C., O. Ferreira, and J. A. G. Cooper. 2013. “Applicability of parametric beach morphodynamic state classification on embayed beaches.” Mar. Geol. 346: 153–164. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2013.09.005.
Masselink, G., and C. B. Pattiaratchi. 2001. “Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia.” Mar. Geol. 172 (3–4): 243–263. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0025-3227(00)00128-6.
Masselink, G., and A. D. Short. 1993. “The effect of tide ranges on beach morph dynamics an morphology: A conceptual beach model.” J. Coastal Res. 9 (3): 785–800.
Miller, I. M., and J. A. Warrick. 2012. “Measuring sediment transport and bed disturbance with tracers on a mixed beach.” Mar. Geol. 299–302: 1–17. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2012.01.002.
Miller, I. M., J. A. Warrick, and C. Morgan. 2011. “Observations of coarse sediment movements on the mixed beach of the Elwha Delta, Washington.” Mar. Geol. 282 (3–4): 201–214. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.02.012.
Oliveira, S., D. Moura, J. Horta, A. Nascimento, A. Gomes, and C. Veiga-Pires. 2017. “The morphosedimentary behaviour of a headland–beach system: Quantifying sediment transport using fluorescent tracers.” Mar. Geol. 388: 62–73. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2017.02.010.
Ortiz-Royero, J. C., and A. Mercado-Irizarry. 2008. “An intercomparison of swan and Wavewatch III models with data from NDBC-NOAA buoys at oceanic scales.” Coastal Eng. J. 50 (1): 47–73. https://doi.org/10.1142/S0578563408001739.
Puleo, P. A. 2010. “Estimating alongshore sediment transport and the nodal point location on the Delaware–Maryland coast.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 136 (3): 135–144. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000034.
Scott, T., G. Masselink, and P. Russel. 2011. “Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales.” Mar. Geol. 286 (1–4): 1–20. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.04.004.
Silva, A., R. Taborda, A. Rodrigues, and J. Duarte. 2007. “Longshore drift estimation using fluorescent tracers: New insights from an experiment at Comporta Beach, Portugal.” Mar. Geol. 240 (1–4): 137–150. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2007.02.009.
Stark, N., and A. E. Hay. 2016. “Pebble and cobble transport on a steep, mega-tidal, mixed sand and gravel beach.” Mar. Geol. 382: 210–223. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2016.10.012.
Taborda, R., J. Cascalho, and C. Sá-Pires. 2006. “Intra-tidal beach morphological changes and their relationship with sand mixing depth.” J. Coastal Res. 39: 319–322.
Van Wellen, E., A. J. Chadwick, and T. Mason. 2000. “A review and assessment of longshore sediment transport equations for coarse-grained beaches.” Coastal Eng. 40 (3): 243–275. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00031-4.
Vila-Concejo, A., Ó. Ferreira, P. Ciavola, A. Matias, and J. A. Dias. 2004. “Tracer studies on the updrift margin of a complex inlet system.” Mar. Geol. 208 (1): 43–72. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2004.04.020.
Wang, P., N. C. Kraus, and R. A. J. R. Davis. 1998. “Total longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone: Field measurements and empirical predictions.” J. Coastal Res. 14 (1): 269–282.
Warrick, J. A., D. A. George, G. Gelfenbaum, P. Ruggiero, G. M. Kaminsky, and M. Beirne. 2009. “Beach morphology and change along the mixed grain-size delta of the dammed Elwha River, Washington.” Geomorphology 111 (3–4): 136–148. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2009.04.012.
Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short. 1984. “Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis.” Mar. Geol. 56 (1–4): 93–118. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2.
Young, I. R. 1999. “Wind generated ocean waves.” Vol. 2 of Elsevier ocean engineering book series. Edited by R. Bhattacharyya and M. E. McCormick. Amsterdam, Netherlands: Elsevier Science.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 145 • Issue 4 • July 2019
Copyright
© 2019 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Feb 22, 2018
Accepted: Dec 4, 2018
Published online: May 2, 2019
Published in print: Jul 1, 2019
Discussion open until: Oct 2, 2019
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.