Variation of Wave Groupiness across a Fringing Reef
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 144, Issue 6
Abstract
A new definition of wave groupiness factor is proposed here based on wave-height history of wave trains. This new definition takes into account the dual roles of both zero-downcrossing wave height and wave period in the spatial and temporal evolution of the wave groupiness. It is demonstrated that the new groupiness factor is less sensitive to the operational definition and can describe the groupiness degree of not only linear wave trains but also highly nonlinear ones. The variation of the wave groupiness across a laboratory fringing reef was investigated. Results showed that in the nonlinear shoaling zone, the groupiness became more pronounced. Decreasing of the groupiness was triggered by wave breaking in the vicinity of the breakpoint. The groupiness decreased rapidly shortly after breaking, whereas it increased in the inner surf zone. Infragravity wave modulation of short-wave water depth was the main source of groupiness after breaking.
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Acknowledgments
The authors are grateful to the three anonymous reviewers whose comments significantly improved the quality of this paper. The authors appreciate Dirk P. Rijnsdorp and Tomohiro Suzuki for helpful suggestions on the use of the SWASH model. This research was financed by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant 51779170) and Innovative Research Groups of the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant 51321065).
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Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 144 • Issue 6 • November 2018
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© 2018 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Nov 28, 2017
Accepted: May 14, 2018
Published online: Aug 29, 2018
Published in print: Nov 1, 2018
Discussion open until: Jan 29, 2019
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