60th Anniversary State-of-the-Art Reviews
Aug 31, 2016

Boussinesq Models and Their Application to Coastal Processes across a Wide Range of Scales

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142, Issue 6

Abstract

In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This review concentrates on the extension of the leading order formulation for weakly dispersive waves to include a range of physical effects and considers model applications at a range of scales ranging from surf zone processes to ocean basin–scale tsunami propagation. A brief overview of the connection of BTMs to nonhydrostatic models, in either depth-integrated or three-dimensional form, is included.

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Acknowledgments

The author thanks the Office of Naval Research, the Army Research Office, the National Science Foundation, and the Delaware Sea Grant Program for their support of his efforts in this area over the years. The work discussed here includes the efforts of a number of present and former students, postdocs, and colleagues at the University of Delaware, and the author extends thanks to all for providing an exciting and productive environment over the years. Present work on FUNWAVE-TVD and NHWAVE is funded by National Science Foundation grants OCE-1334325, OCE-1435147, and CMMI-1537232 and the National Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Program.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142Issue 6November 2016

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Received: Feb 23, 2016
Accepted: May 2, 2016
Published online: Aug 31, 2016
Published in print: Nov 1, 2016
Discussion open until: Jan 31, 2017

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James T. Kirby, M.ASCE [email protected]
Professor, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716. E-mail: [email protected]

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