TECHNICAL NOTES
Jan 8, 2011

Evolution of Gravel Beach Profiles

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137, Issue 5

Abstract

An experiment was conducted in a wave flume to examine the processes of gravel beach profile evolution under irregular waves. Two erosion tests were performed on a steep slope of 1/2 with two different significant wave heights. An accretion test was conducted on a mild slope of 1/5 until its profile became quasi-equilibrium. Another test was initiated with a gravel bar constructed at the toe of the equilibrium profile. The bar migrated onshore and resulted in the seaward shift of the equilibrium profile. Quasi-equilibrium profiles observed after 18 or 36 bursts of 400-s wave action were similar but affected by the differences in the wave height and initial profile. A numerical model developed for damage progression of stone armor layers is shown to predict the profile changes of the two erosion tests. The bed load formula used in the model is adjusted to better predict the onshore bar migration and the accretional change on the mild slope. More extensive comparisons of the numerical model with data will be required before it can be applied to gravel and cobble beaches.

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Acknowledgments

This study was supported by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal and Hydraulic Laboratory under contract No. USACEW912HZ-10-P-0234 and No. USACEW912BU-09-C-0023. The writers thank Jack Puleo and Ali Farhadzadeh for their contributions to experimental setup and instrumentation.

References

Ahrens, J. P. (1990). “Dynamic revetments.” Proc., 22nd Int. Coastal Engineering Conf., ASCE, Reston, VA, 1837–1850.
Allan, J. C., and Komar, P. D. (2002). “A dynamic revetment and artificial dune for shore protection.” Proc., 28th Int. Coastal Engineering Conf., World Scientific, Singapore, 2044–2056.
Hicks, B., Kobayashi, N., Figlus, J., Puleo, J. A., and Farhadzadeh, A. (2010). “Cross-shore transport on gravel beaches.” Research Rep. No. CACR-10-01, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE.
Kobayashi, N., Farhadzadeh, A., and Melby, J. A. (2010). “Wave overtopping and damage progression of stone armor layer.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 136(5), 257–265.
Kobayashi, N., Payo, A., and Schmied, L. (2008). “Cross-shore suspended sand and bedload transport on beaches.” J. Geophys. Res., 113, C07001.
van der Meer, J. W., and Pilarczyk, K. W. (1986). “Dynamic stability of rock slopes and gravel beaches.” Proc., 20th Int. Coastal Engineering Conf., ASCE, Reston, VA, 1713–1726.

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Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137Issue 5September 2011
Pages: 258 - 262

History

Received: Jun 21, 2010
Accepted: Jan 6, 2011
Published online: Jan 8, 2011
Published in print: Sep 1, 2011

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Authors

Affiliations

Nobuhisa Kobayashi, M.ASCE [email protected]
Professor and Director, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716 (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]
Betsy S. Hicks
Master’s Student, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.
Jens Figlus
Ph.D. Student, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.

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