Depth Inversion in the Surf Zone with Inclusion of Wave Nonlinearity Using Video-Derived Celerity
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137, Issue 2
Abstract
A process is described for computation of bathymetry in and near the surf zone, from spatially varying celerity and breakpoint location data. The procedure involves the use of three submodels: (1) a wave shoaling model (outside of the surf zone); (2) a wave breaking model (defining the offshore boundary of the surf zone); and (3) a wave dissipation model (inside the surf zone). Influence of wave amplitude on the wave dispersion relation and celerity is included. Output includes wave height and water depth throughout the domain. In the application described here, oblique digital video served as the initial data source, although the model could be applied to data derived from other sources. Results are compared with data recorded by in situ sensors and beach profile survey data acquired by traditional means. Results suggest that water depths can be computed within 15% normalized error (equally, less than 0.1 m in biased depth error) for in and near the surf zone characterized by high wave nonlinearity.
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Acknowledgments
This work was supported in part by an U.S. National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency NURI award. In addition, the field data used in this study was collected under the financial support of the U.S. Geological Survey, the South Carolina Sea Grant, and the National Oceanographic Partnership Program. The first writer was also supported in part by the Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute (KORDI) (Grant UNSPECIFIEDPE 98452 and 98453) and the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) (Grant UNSPECIFIEDM062003000101390).
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 137 • Issue 2 • March 2011
Pages: 95 - 106
Copyright
© 2011 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Aug 26, 2009
Accepted: Jun 24, 2010
Published online: Jul 5, 2010
Published in print: Mar 1, 2011
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