TECHNICAL NOTES
Aug 3, 2009

Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136, Issue 2

Abstract

The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell’s law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.

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Acknowledgments

This work was partly funded by the Coastal Morphology Modeling and Management (Cascade) work unit, System-Wide Water Resources Program, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (ML and HH), and partly by Sida/SAREC in the framework of the Project VS/RDE/03, “The evolution and sustainable management in the coastal areas of Vietnam” (LXH).

References

Hanson, H. (1989). “GENESIS—A generalized shoreline change numerical model.” J. Coastal Res., 5(1), 1–27.
Hanson, H., and Kraus, N. C. (1989). “GENESIS: Generalized model for simulating shoreline change.” Rep. No. 1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Vicksburg, Miss.
Kraus, N. C., and Harikai, S. (1983). “Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach.” Coastal Eng., 7(1), 1–28.
Larson, M., Kraus, N. C., and Hanson, H. (2002). “Simulation of regional longshore sediment transport and coastal evolution—The Cascade model.” Proc., 28th Coastal Engineering Conf., ASCE, Reston, Va., 2612–2624.
Walton, T. L., Birkemeier, W. A., and Weggel, J. R. (1982). “Hand-held calculator algorithms for coastal engineering.” Rep. No. 82-1, Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Fort Belvoir, Va.

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Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136Issue 2March 2010
Pages: 119 - 122

History

Received: Dec 17, 2008
Accepted: Jul 31, 2009
Published online: Aug 3, 2009
Published in print: Mar 2010

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Authors

Affiliations

Magnus Larson
Professor, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden.
Le Xuan Hoan [email protected]
Graduate Student, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden; and, Graduate Student, Institute of Mechanics, Vietnamese Academy of Science and Technology, 264 Doi Can, Hanoi, Vietnam (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]
Hans Hanson, M.ASCE
Professor, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden.

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