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May 1, 2008

Influence of Spectral Width on Wave Height Parameter Estimates in Coastal Environments

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Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 134, Issue 3

Abstract

In this study, we present comparisons of wave height estimates using data from acoustic Doppler wave gauges in ten coastal and estuarine environments. The results confirm that the agreement between significant wave height estimates based on spectral moments (Hm0) versus zero-crossing analysis (H13) is linked to the underlying narrow band assumption, and that a divergence from theory occurs as spectral width increases with changes in the wave field. Long-term measurements of the maximum to significant wave height ratio, HmaxH13 , show a predictable dependence on the site-specific wave climate and sampling scheme. As an engineering tool for other investigators, we present empirically derived equations relating Hm0H13 and H13m0 to the spectral bandwidth parameter, ν , and evaluate two procedures to predict Hmax from the spectrum when the surface elevation time series is unavailable. Comparisons with observations at each site demonstrate the utility of the methods to predict Hmax within 10% on average.

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Acknowledgments

The writers would like to thank researchers at NOAA, U.S. Coast Guard Academy, Dalhousie University, UNC-Wilmington, UCSD Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP), Rutgers University, University of South Florida, and Nortek-AS for providing access to the datasets examined in this study. Support for VIMS investigators was provided by the Office of Naval Research, Processes and Prediction Program, Award No. ONRN00014-05-1-0493.

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Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 134Issue 3May 2008
Pages: 187 - 194

History

Received: Sep 1, 2006
Accepted: May 21, 2007
Published online: May 1, 2008
Published in print: May 2008

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Authors

Affiliations

Justin P. Vandever
Coastal Engineer, Philip Williams and Associates, Ltd., San Francisco, CA 94108 (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]; formerly, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, Gloucester Point, VA 23062.
Eric M. Siegel
General Manager, Nortek USA, Annapolis, MD 21403. E-mail: [email protected]
John M. Brubaker
Associate Professor, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, Gloucester Point, VA 23062. E-mail: [email protected]
Carl T. Friedrichs, M.ASCE
Professor, Virginia Institute of Marine Science, Gloucester Point, VA 23062. E-mail: [email protected]

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