TECHNICAL PAPERS
Mar 1, 2007

Irregular Breaking Wave Transmission over Submerged Porous Breakwater

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 133, Issue 2

Abstract

A numerical model based on time-averaged continuity, momentum, and energy equations is developed to predict the mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation and horizontal fluid velocities above and inside a porous submerged breakwater. The energy dissipation rate due to irregular breaking waves is estimated using an existing formula that is modified for intense wave breaking on the steep seaward slope of the breakwater. This computationally efficient numerical model is an extension of the existing time-averaged model which is widely used to predict irregular breaking wave transformation on impermeable beaches. The developed model is shown to predict the cross-shore variations of the mean and standard deviation of the free surface elevation measured in a laboratory experiment where a submerged porous breakwater was placed on a gentle impermeable slope. The agreement for the measured horizontal velocity is marginal partly because this one-dimensional model does not predict the vertical velocity variation. This semiempirical model calibrated using the present experiment will need to be compared with additional experiments.

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Acknowledgments

This study was partially supported by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory under Contract No. UNSPECIFIEDDACW42-03-C-0024.

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Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 133Issue 2March 2007
Pages: 104 - 116

History

Received: Sep 10, 2004
Accepted: Dec 9, 2005
Published online: Mar 1, 2007
Published in print: Mar 2007

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Authors

Affiliations

Nobuhisa Kobayashi
Professor and Director, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.
Leslie E. Meigs
Graduate Student, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716.
Takao Ota
Assistant Professor, Dept. of Social Systems Engineering, Tottori Univ., 4-101 Koyama Minami, Tottori 680-8552, Japan.
Jeffrey A. Melby
Research Hydraulic Engineer, U.S. Army Engineering Research and Development Center, 3909 Halls Ferry Rd., Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199.

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