Nearshore Wave Modeling with High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 132, Issue 5
Abstract
The accuracy of using high-order Boussinesq-type models as compared to the typical order models is examined in this paper. The high-order model used is the two-layer model of Lynett and Liu in 2004, which captures both linear and nonlinear wave evolution up to . The physical situations examined all involve nearshore breaking, and an eddy-viscosity type breaking model is adopted for the two-layer model. One-horizontal dimension setups are the focus of this paper. It is shown that high-order models show significant benefit very near to the breaker line. For regular incident waves, the overshoaling seen in the one-layer (“fully nonlinear” extended Boussinesq) model is due to rapid increase of energy in the fifth and higher harmonics. These high-order nonlinear components are captured well in the two-layer model. The two-layer model also exhibits a noticeable accuracy increase for cnoidal waves breaking on a slope. For regular wave evolution over a bar, the high-order models are in good agreement with experiment, correctly modeling the free short waves behind the step. Under irregular wave conditions, it is likewise shown that high-order nonlinearity is important near the breaker line and the outer surf zone. Using SwashX field data, spectral comparisons are made and discussed.
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Acknowledgments
The writer would like to thank Dr. Britt Raubenhiemer for providing the raw data from the SwashX experiments, which were funded by the Office of Naval Research.ONR The research presented here was partially supported by a grant from the National Science Foundation (Grant No. NSFCTS-0427115).
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 132 • Issue 5 • September 2006
Pages: 348 - 357
Copyright
© 2006 ASCE.
History
Received: Feb 18, 2005
Accepted: Aug 4, 2005
Published online: Sep 1, 2006
Published in print: Sep 2006
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