Detection of Breaking in a Deep Water Wave Record
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 128, Issue 2
Abstract
Records of deepwater sea surface elevation alone, even when taken at high sampling rates, do not allow determination of those waves in the record that are breaking. Although visual observations of steep random waves clearly show even the beginning of a breaking event, the white capping and collapse of the front face of a breaking wave do not appear in any meaningful way in the recorded output of an elevation gauge. Considerable research has been devoted to finding a method of detecting breaking events in a wave elevation record. Some criteria have been advanced, but most of the models show little skill. The present study evaluates the power of the Phase-Time Method based on the Hilbert transform, in detecting breaking waves in large-scale laboratory experiments under a variety of deep water wave conditions. A limited validation of the method in the field was performed. A useful model of deepwater breaking wave detection is developed, and its limits are stated. The behavior of the model suggests that these results may be useful in the understanding of the breaking mechanism in deep water.
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 128 • Issue 2 • March 2002
Pages: 72 - 78
Copyright
Copyright © 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Jun 27, 2000
Accepted: Jan 9, 2001
Published online: Mar 1, 2002
Published in print: Mar 2002
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