Wave Runup on Dikes with Shallow Foreshores
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 127, Issue 5
Abstract
Prototype measurements, physical model tests, and numerical model computations have been performed and combined to study wave runup on dikes with shallow foreshores. Shallow foreshores considerably affect the evolution of wave height distributions and wave energy spectra between deep water and the toe of coastal structures. The numerical model investigations were performed to study the influence of wave energy spectra on wave runup and wave overtopping. This resulted in a characteristic wave period for wave runup and wave overtopping, which takes the effects of wave energy spectra into account. This was confirmed in a series of physical model tests with different types of foreshores and different types of structures. Also, results from physical model tests were compared with results from measurements in prototype. The six storm conditions that were measured in prototype were accurately reproduced in the physical model tests. The results of each of the three data sources were combined, and led to a prediction method that can be used for conditions with deep water and for conditions with shallow foreshores.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Battjes, J. A. ( 1969). “Discussion of paper by J. N. Svašek: `Statistical evaluation of wave conditions in a deltaic area.”' Proc., Symp. on Res. on Wave Action, Vol. 1, Paper 1, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
2.
Battjes, J. A. ( 1974). “Computation of set-up, longshore currents, runup and overtopping due to wind-generated waves.” PhD thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
3.
Borsboom, M., Doorn, N., Groeneweg, J., and van Gent, M. ( 2001). “A Boussinesq-type wave model that conserves both mass and momentum.” Proc., ICCE 2000, Vol. 1, ASCE, Reston, Va., 148–161.
4.
Bouws, E., Günther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C. L. ( 1985). “Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water. 1. Spectral form.” J. Geophys. Res., 90(C1), 975–986.
5.
Cornett, A., and Mansard, E. ( 1995). “Wave stresses on rubble mound armour.” Proc., ICCE'94, Vol. 1, ASCE, New York, 986–1000.
6.
De Waal, J. P., and van der Meer, J. W. ( 1993). “Wave run-up and overtopping on coastal structures.” Proc., ICCE'92, Vol. 2, ASCE, New York, 1758–1771.
7.
Hibberd, S., and Peregrine, D. H. ( 1979). “Surf and run-up on a beach: A uniform bore.” J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, England, 95(Part 2), 323–345.
8.
Holterman, S. ( 1998). “Golfoploop op dijken met ondiepe voorlanden [Wave run-up at dikes with shallow foreshores].” MSc thesis, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands (in Dutch).
9.
Hunt, I. A. ( 1959). “Design of seawalls and breakwaters.” Trans. ASCE, New York, 85(3), 123–152.
10.
Kobayashi, N., Otta, A. K., and Roy, I. (1987). “Wave reflection and run-up on rough slopes.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 113(3), 282–298.
11.
Kostense, J. K. ( 1985). “Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave group.” Proc., ICCE'84, ASCE, New York, 724–740.
12.
Mansard, E. F. P., and Funke, E. ( 1981). “The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least-squares method.” Proc., ICCE'80, ASCE, New York, 154–172.
13.
Seijffert, J. J. W. ( 1991). “Golfoploop bij tweetoppig spectrum [Wave run-up for double peaked spectrum].” Note, Rijkswaterstaat-DWW, Delft, The Netherlands (in Dutch).
14.
Smith, G. M. ( 1999). “Oploop—en overslagmetingen op een ondiep voorland [Wave run-up and wave overtopping measurements for a shallow foreshore].”Rep. H3271/H3471, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands (in Dutch).
15.
van der Meer, J. W. ( 1997). “Golfoploop en golfoverslag bij dijken [Wave run-up and wave overtopping at dikes].” Rep. H2458/H3051, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands (in Dutch).
16.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 1994). “The modelling of wave action on and in coastal structures.” Coast. Engrg., 22(3-4), 311–339.
17.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 1995). “Wave interaction with permeable coastal structures.” PhD thesis, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
18.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 1999a). “Physical model investigations on coastal structures with shallow foreshores: 2D model tests on the Petten Sea-defence.” MAST-OPTICREST Rep. and Delft Hydr. Rep. H3129, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
19.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 1999b). “Physical model investigations on coastal structures with shallow foreshores: 2D model tests with single and double-peaked wave energy spectra.” Rep. H3608, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
20.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 1999c). “Wave run-up and wave overtopping for double-peaked wave energy spectra.” Rep. H3351, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
21.
van Gent, M. R. A. ( 2000). “Wave run-up on dikes with berms.” Rep. H3205, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
22.
van Gent, M. R. A., and Doorn, N. ( 2001). “Numerical model simulations on wave propagation and wave run-up on dikes with shallow foreshores.” Proc., Coast. Dyn. 2001, ASCE, Reston, Va., 769–778.
23.
Van Oorschot, J. H., and d'Angremond, K. ( 1969). “Chapter 57: The effect of wave energy spectra on wave run-up.” Proc., ICCE'68, ASCE, New York, 886–900.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 127 • Issue 5 • October 2001
Pages: 254 - 262
History
Received: Oct 26, 2000
Published online: Oct 1, 2001
Published in print: Oct 2001
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.