Improvement of Parabolic Nonlinear Dispersive Wave Model
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 127, Issue 2
Abstract
Improvements to a previously published nonlinear parabolic wave model are developed and implemented. A second-order correction to a free-surface boundary condition used to develop the original model is formulated. The correction takes into account the complete second-order transformation between amplitudes of the velocity potential and those of the free-surface elevation. Additionally, wide-angle propagation terms are included in the model. It is shown that the model with the second-order correction retains the properties of third-order Stokes theory quite well in deep water. Comparisons of model behavior to data reveal that both nonlinearity and wide-angle propagation effects need to be included in the model for general wave transformation problems in shallow water. Skewness predictions are considerably improved by using both the second-order correction and by retaining a greater number of frequency components in the calculation. Asymmetry calculations are aided by incorporation of frequency-squared weighting for distribution of the dissipation function. Further improvement may entail a different form of the breaking model.
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 127 • Issue 2 • April 2001
Pages: 113 - 121
History
Received: Jan 19, 2000
Published online: Apr 1, 2001
Published in print: Apr 2001
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