TECHNICAL PAPERS
Jan 1, 2000

Effect of Bed Roughness on Time-Mean Drift Induced by Waves

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 126, Issue 1

Abstract

The results are reported of an experimental study of the Eulerian time-mean drift induced by progressive water waves over rough beds. Measurements were made in a laboratory flume with a laser Doppler anemometer, and two different two-dimensional artificial bed roughnesses were investigated. The measurements show that the maximum value of the time-mean drift velocity at the bed may be increased or decreased relative to the value predicted by Longuet-Higgins' theory for smooth beds. For a certain range of parameters, near-bed mean drift in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation was observed.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.

References

1.
Allen, J., and Gibson, D. H. (1959). “Experiments on the displacement of water by waves of various heights and frequencies.” Proc., Inst. of Civ. Engrgs., London, 13, 363–386.
2.
Bagnold, R. A. (1947). “Sand movement by waves: some small scale experiments with sand of very low density.” J. Inst. of Civ. Engrs., London, 447–469.
3.
Brebner, A., Askew, J. A., and Law, S. W. (1966). “Effect of roughness on mass-transport of progressive gravity wave.” Proc., 10th Conf. on Coast. Engrg., ASCE, New York, 175–184.
4.
Broker, I. (1985). “Wave-generated ripples and resulting sediment transport in waves.” Series Paper 36, Inst. of Hydrodyn. and Hydr. Engrg., Technical University of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark.
5.
Caligny, A. (1878). “Expériences sur les mouvements des molécules liquides des ondes courantes, considérées dans leur mode d'action sur la marche des navires.” Comp. Rendu Acad. Sci., Paris, 87, 1019–1023 (in French).
6.
Collins, J. I. (1963). “Inception of turbulence at the bed under periodic gravity waves.” J. Geophys. Res., 68(21), 6007-6014.
7.
Davies, A. G., and Villaret, C. ( 1997). “Oscillatory flow over rippled beds: boundary layer structure and wave-induced Eulerian drift.” Gravity waves in water of finite depth, J. N. Hunt, ed., Computational Mechanics Publications, Southampton, U.K., 215–254.
8.
Fredsoe, J., Sumer, B. M., Laursen, T. S., and Petersen, C. (1993). “Experimental investigation of wave boundary layers with a sudden change in roughness.” J. Fluid Mech., 252, 117–145.
9.
Hsu, T.-W., and Ou, S.-H. (1994). “On the mass transport of water waves in a turbulent boundary layer.” Oc. Engrg., 21(2), 195–206.
10.
Jacobs, S. J. (1984). “Mass transport in a turbulent boundary layer under a progressive water wave.” J. Fluid Mech., 146, 303–312.
11.
Liu, P. L.-F., Davis, M. H., and Downing, S. (1996). “Wave-induced boundary layer flows above and in a permeable bed.” J. Fluid Mech., 325, 195–218.
12.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. (1953). “Mass transport in water waves.” Philosophical Trans. Royal Soc., 245(903), 535–581.
13.
Marin, F., and Sleath, J. F. A. ( 1994). “Mass transport over rippled beds.” Sediment transport mechanisms in coastal environments and rivers, Rajaona and J. F. A. Sleath, eds., World Scientific, Singapore, 246–254.
14.
Mathisen, P. P., and Madsen, O. S. (1996). “Waves and currents over a fixed rippled bed. II: Bottom and apparent roughness experienced by currents in the presence of waves.” J. Geophys. Res., 101(C7), 16543–16550.
15.
Mei, C. C., Liu, P. L.-F., and Carter, T. G. (1972). “Mass transport in water waves.” Ralph M. Parsons Lab. Rep. 146, Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Mass.
16.
O'Hare, T. J. ( 1992). “Sand-bar evolution beneath partially standing waves,” PhD thesis, University of Wales, Cardiff, U.K.
17.
Sleath, J. F. A. (1972). “A second approximation to mass transport by water waves.” J. Marine Res., 30(3), 295–304.
18.
Sleath, J. F. A. (1974a). “Mass transport over a rough bed.” J. Marine Res., 32(1), 13–24.
19.
Sleath, J. F. A. ( 1974b). “A numerical study of the influence of bottom roughness on mass transport by water waves.” Numerical methods in fluid dynamics, C. A. Brebbis and J. J. Connor, eds., Pentech Press, London.
20.
Sleath, J. F. A. (1984). “Measurements of mass transport over a rough bed.” Proc., 19th Conf. on Coast. Engrg., ASCE, New York, 1149–1160.
21.
Trowbridge, J. H., and Madsen, O. S. (1984). “Turbulent wave boundary layers. II: Second-order theory and mass transport.” J. Geophys. Res., 89(C5), 7999–8007.
22.
Van Doorn, T. (1981). “Experimental investigation of near-bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current.” Delft Hydr. Rep. M1423, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, The Netherlands.
23.
Vittori, G., and Blondeaux, P. (1996). “Mass transport under sea waves propagating over a rippled bed.” J. Fluid Mech., 314, 247–265.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 126Issue 1January 2000
Pages: 23 - 29

History

Received: Jul 21, 1998
Published online: Jan 1, 2000
Published in print: Jan 2000

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

Postgraduate, Dept. of Engrg., Cambridge Univ., Trumpington St., Cambridge CB2 1PZ, U.K.
Reader, Dept. of Engrg., Cambridge Univ., Trumpington St., Cambridge CB2 1PZ, U.K.

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

Cited by

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Article
$35.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share