Effects of Bottom Friction on Wave Breaking Using RCPWAVE Model
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 118, Issue 4
Abstract
The effects of bottom friction on the estimation of breaking‐wave heights, breaking locations, and breaking angles, determined by using the RCPWAVE model, were examined. We used direct and a wave‐ray approaches to simulate the effects of energy loss caused by bottom friction. The direct approach requires knowing the wave friction coefficient prior to the calculation, and it did not give promising results. The wave‐ray approach is simple and effective; thus, it is used in this study. Three types of bottom roughness (i.e., grain size, ripple, and movable bed) were considered in the calculation of bottom friction. The numerical experiments showed that bottom friction is important when there is a 2‐ to 5‐km‐wide shallow beach. Bottom friction reduces the breaking‐wave height 30–50%. It also changes the breaking points. The computer codes for the wave‐ray approach are portable, and they can be incorporated with any other wave transformation model to give more realistic results.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 118 • Issue 4 • July 1992
Pages: 387 - 400
Copyright
Copyright © 1992 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1992
Published in print: Jul 1992
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